I'm now open to suggestions for freeing the seized bearing on the
crankshaft. My thoughts at the momment are, fit a jubilee clip to the
bearing shell, apply heat and then wrench the bearing round, if it will.
Other plan, machine flats on it and use big spanner, final resort cut
the bearing in two, and think about making a two part bearing...
I can't pictur this seized bearing situation properly.
Any chance of a pic?
Before seeing it, maybe a combination of loads of PlusGas or similar,
gentle heating, & tapping back & to along the shaft?
Re your dodgy journal, last resort, involves money, would be metal
spraying. Some say don't do it, but it's been done often enough.
Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
Vintage diesel engine service
Tim, this is my bearing problem, I tried gentle heat and
WD-40 followed by rubber boa wrench twanging... Guess I lack patience,
will try to soak and heat the bearing over time and see what gives.
Patience is the key, the methods you suggest will simply cause distortion
and having a new one made will not be cheap at all!
Unless it seized in use it will just be a very thin film of rust/s***.
Cobble a dam round it and fill with diesel or shove the whole thing in a
bucket of diesel. Leave it for a few weeks/months applying gentle heat
(preferably from a hot air gun) from time to time.
The engine I've just got running again (8hp Petter S) had stood, unsheeted,
in a garden for 15 years. It had been full of water and everything was
rusty. The piston took a week to free, the mains a week, the pump 3 days,
the governer assembly three weeks and the rings as long. It had to have a
liner because of the loss of metal and a BE regrind because some dolt had
soldered P-B shim into the big end but everything else cleaned up and is
working fine. (Apart from the wretched sprayer nozzle :-(
If the main flange is a little way off the thrust face you could try sliding
a well fitting and clean/square ended thickwall-tube over the crank and
giving it a frim but gentle tap as part of the process. Even a few thou will
help the diesel to percolate.
Time, heat and penetration are the keys. This bush will come off, you'll
just have to be patient!
Use a big flame like a blowlamp & get the whole thing hot - don't overdo it,
you don't want to denature bush or journal - then add penetrating oil of
your choice. Many say Diesel & certainly it does work although personally,
my preference is Plus Gas & it smells so much better. I've had a lot of
success over the years getting stuck rings out of pistons without breaking
them, including a Villiers two stroke that dates to pre First War that had
been at the bottom of a rusty pile of engines in a barn since 1921.
If it was me, I'd be inclined to drill a shallow hole through the bush part
way along its length, just dimpling the shaft. This will give another oiling
point on the bearing surface so you are not expecting it all to work in from
Repeated light percussion on the bearing will help, too. Light blows from a
big hammer are better than heavy blows from a light hammer. Don't overdo it!
Repeated cycles of heat & penetrating medium, allowing soaking time in
between WILL get the damn thing off, but you must expect it to take a while.
After all, it didn't *get* stuck in a day or two, did it?
Reboring the cylinder should pose no problems, but if the reboring man
fights shy of it, a coarse hone will soon see the chrome off, it isn't thick
in all conscience.
Would this be away of changing it from a 3/1 to a bigger capacity? I dunno,
J. Kim Siddorn,
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Time waits for no man with a Thor hammer. I got the bearing off,
unexpectantly. I was trying to drift the other bearing out by hammering
the bearing plate onto the seized bearing to push it out. That worked
and as I tapped the end plate off it pulled the seized bearing a few mm.
Did it all again after putting some shim in the bearing to stop it
sliding back, and this time it pulled the bearing clean off the shaft.
Now with two bearings in one end plate, I managed to knock them both out
with timber blocks. The seized bearing does have some gauling in it.
It turned out the anti-rotation pin had sheared, and this bearing sleeve
had been spinning in the bearing plate (for some time), gradually
grinding the sheared pin into a nice abrasive clump. Not sure if the
bearing or bearing plate will need replacing, I do need to clean the
shaft up to get it smooth again. The Garyflex blocks do a great job at
this, and I can recommend people to try hand scrapeing, does a beaut job
of smoothing things off if you take it steady, and the tools are so cheap.
Here's a bunch more shots. First off I can't for the life of me figure
why someone would want to punch a load of dimples into the crankshaft,
through the oil hole??? but they did...
After getting the bushes off I could inspect them and clean them up,
they both seem to have similar wear patterns so should be OK, however,
if you look at the outside you can see the slightly blacken bearing,
this is the one that has been spinning on the shaft. It looks OK, but
is a loose fit in the bearing plate. I need to work out if the bearing
plate has worn, or the bearing.
Now that's out the way I turned my attention to the getting the
crankshaft journal smoothed. I learnt to scrape a few years ago, whilst
fixing an old milling machine, since I got the tools and not much to
loose I figured to give it a go. The first picture shows the results.
It's sort of like shaving your spotty face, the edge takes the peaks off
whilst only removing microns form the smooth surface, in this case it
probably excavated a bit as well.
Note the very fine powdered metal at the ends of the area scrapped, once
the bearing is re-assembled and run, it should bed these areas in.
Final picture is of the crankshaft and tool I used, it's well worth
practising with some old cast iron and engineers blue. I will be
treating all the machined surfaces eventually.
Thanks again to everyone that has emailed with help, or just shown
interest in what I am doing.
Here's a bunch more pictures. First off I can't for the life of me
figure why someone would punch a load of dimples into the crankshaft
through the oil hole in the bush, but they did ???
Having got the bushes off and inspected, they both show similar wear
patterns and still a good fit, so hopefully can be re-used. My only
concern is the slightly blackened bush, is the one that was seized and
spinning in the bearing plate. I think maybe the bearing plate is worn
as it's still a good fit in the other plate. Paper shim could be in use
Having sorted the bushes out, it's time to clean up the damage on the
crankshaft. I figured since I learned to scrape a few years ago, I
might as well apply it here. First photo shows the result on the big
end journal. You can see by the powered metal at the ends, it only
takes off minute quantities of metal from the smooth surface, but will
pull the tops off the peaks in the damaged areas. A bit like shaving a
The next photo shows the tool I used. You only have to draw it over the
surface with light pressure. Normally you apply engineers blue, but in
this case I used the oily crude. I will apply this to all teh machine
surfaces as I get round to them, maybe overkill, but it keeps my hand in.
Finally, a big thanks to everyone that has responded by email offers of
help, or just nice things about the project as it goes. Hopefully those
that learn from my mistakes can share what they learn with others.
This is my first engine project, and things before this were model
projects no bigger than your hand. So it's new to me too, please enjoy
Finally some reward on the hours put in so far crankshaft and piston rod
rejoin in a happy and close union. Thanks to Lidl for the cheap axle
Hopefully I can wrap this part up and store it for later, as parts get
finished they are cleaned, Waxol'd and wrapped in sandwich bags, then
put into a plastic crate... I'm calling it the "Lister Lunch Box"
Just don't take it to work!
Brian L Dominic
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Guys, after much thought and weighing up of pro's and cons, I have
decided to try and build the engine as the original 3/1. My logic goes
something like this...
The crankshaft and bearings are my main concern, so figure if I use what
I got, the smaller cylinder will put less strain on these components.
The amount of parts needed for the 5/1 hybrid make picking up a complete
5/1 a more viable option, but not at the moment. I have been offered
parts, and hopefully the other bits I need, I can come by. The brass
engine plaque is complete and in good condition, so should make it a
viable and traceable show engine at some point!!!
Anyone spot any faults in my logic, glaring omissions, or some secret
components that could require body parts/soul in payment. I'm hoping
that piston rings are also not too hard to come by. Gaskets are also on
my mind, choices being, make or buy UK/Indian supplies ???
Joules, the oily one
Just being nosey, you understand but what - if anything - are you going to
do about the bore? For myself, it would be the only thing I'd worry about as
the flaking chrome will continue to flake as sure as eggs is eggs.
At least there is no pumped lubrication to send the diamond hard little
particles around the engine!
J. Kim Siddorn,
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