OT insulation?

Ceiling fans(s).

Strip of the exiting exterior covering bung 50mm or more of celotex on top of the boards. Replace the covering.

Ah. If you don't want to mess about with the interior appearance I can't see how you can avoid stripping the exterior covering to fit decent insulation. Insulation is the only way to stop the heat loss.

Centrally mounted ceiling fan. The come in many styles and also with lights. Generally three speed with reverse rotation. You want it blowing air at the ceiling which circulates it back down the walls. In the summer blowing downwards, you can use it to cool the lower level.

If I was going to the trouble, I would remove the T&G and underlay it with polystyrene sheet, then replace the T&G sealing the joints with tan coloured mastic.

Do I picture it correctly - the T&G is attached to the inside face of the rafters thus creating a cavity between the T&G and the slates?

I guess you could have rockwool blown in to insulate, but I would be a bit concerned about water penetration if the outer slates are less than perfect.

When we sold out last house we were compelled to fill the cavity between the plasterboard walls The inside of the roof is finished in T&G which is

John Ambler Sussex, UK Return E-mails to snipped-for-privacy@skiprat.net

Thanks for the thoughts folks. Its exactly as you picture John. The slates are fine but the criss-cross jumble of round, half-round, and sawn timbers would prevent blowing anything in. The T&G is so old and dry that it would not come off whole (not to mention the soot/dirt mix that would permeate the whole house) and I confess that applying mastic to about a 1000ft of joint is not appealing. The best compromise seems to be applying Celotex and another layer of T&G and using fans. BTW has anyone found a source for plain simple fans? All the ones I've looked at were tacky in the extreme. regards

Once you have 50mm of celotex on the inside and another layer of T&G you won't need the ceiling fans to the same extent. What are the walls like? Are they solid stone or solid and dry lined? Solid walls are horribly lossy for heat. That's why a place with solid walls is cool in the summer and warm in the winter but if you ever let it get cold...

I put just 25mm celotex and 15mm plasterboard on an exterior small end wall (just two sheets) and the difference to that room is amazing. Put

If the exterior walls aren't dry lined, do it. The heat loss through soild stone is horrendous. Factor of ten sort of difference between solid stone and 50mm of celotext type stuff. Interior walls aren't so much of a problem they act as a heat bank/sink (winter/summer).

As someone who once sealed each and every seam on a larch-on-oak Viking ship replica (about five hundred feet of seam) by hand with Sikoflex applied with the middle finger, right hand as it came out of the gun, I really do appreciate your problem, Roland ;o)) But we both know that the only way to seal the T&G's seams is by cladding or biting the silicone bullet!

I'd be really concerned about adding the not inconsiderable weight of a further layer of T&G attached to the first.The vibration of nailing in itself should be considered. Depending on the timber used, the roof structure may or may not be strong enough to walk on. Slates are bleedin' heavy enough already without further load upon tinder-dry wood that is (say)

Insects love it & if the wood in your roof was young timber and thin in section, the ratio of heart to sapwood will not be in its favour. A lot of oak was grown for its bark for the tanning industry. The greatest concentration of tannin is found in unfissured bark & this fissuring occurs usually in the tree's ninth or tenth year. The remaining wood was not considered of great value & was used green for temporary structures, basket making etc & there would have been a lot of it about.

Of course, the timbers in Roland's roof may well not be oak at all .....

Although I am very far from being any kind of an authority, my honest advice would be to treat the structure just as you would any other antique. Conserve it as it is, replace only what is necessary to maintain it and keep a close eye on the entomology that falls into your cereal bowl!

"Cob" is a framed wall with an initial core of sticks, usually hazel withy, but sometimes a stronger lattice of lathe of one kind or another. It is overlaid & filled with a species of mud consisting of top soil, sharp sand & clay mixed with various binding agents like cow sh*t, horse hair & straw.

It isn't important that the fan should shift lots of air, only that it does it quietly & all the time. I'd be looking at plastic drain pipe & computer cooling fans ;o))

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

I doubt it. Cob has around(*) 0.8W/m^2K (for 600mm thick, approx 2') but as it's such a variable material anything from 0.6 to 1.5 is acceptable... Half of stone though, which is around 3W/m^2K

Current (English) building regs give a max of 0.35W/m^2K. 45mm of cellotex type stuff acheives that in one hit.

In article , Kim Siddorn writes

I'm normally just a lurker, but let me add my own cautionary tale here...

My first house was 17th Cent, but based on something earlier. A couple of years after we moved in a few slates came down after a storm, so I sent the local roofer up to have a look - he promptly descended into the attic, amidst a shower of slate and not much else.

It turned out that the original purlins, joists etc. had completely rotted out and mostly disappeared. The only thing holding the mass of slates together was moss and, once disturbed, it collapsed like a pack of cards. I had to have the whole end of the roof re-built; fortunately I had the right kind of insurance to cover it.

No doubt most saw on the news the house in Ottery that partially collapsed. whilst being re-roofed. A classic case of repeated floods removing the cob's will to live. I can't really add much to my previous description of the roof but its a motley collection although sound - or so I am assured by professionals. I have seen bits when the elm gable structure was replaced after collapsing and whilst fixing the odd slipped slate or rotted T&G. The trusses and purlins are sound as are the rounds and half-rounds used for the original thatched roof. To that has been added square sawn rafters and battens. Its a bit wavy but will long outlast me. I have taken onboard all the advice and decided to do nothing but caulk the obvious gaps and holes in the T&G. That is done. regards Roland

So - you will get it done before Chrimble, then?

Back to the engines!

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

One possibility might be to have foam injected behind the T&G, between it and the slates. This sort of insulation is often done on boats (admittedly before the cabin lining is installed) but it would have the disadvantage of blocking any air circulating (and keeping things dry)

Brian L Dominic

Web Sites: Canals:

Aw, don't be like that. I live in a 17thC stone built place but as all the walls are plastered (some are flatter and straighter than others, the worst offendors are stud walls) or all ready drylined but sans insulation it's not an issue. Keeping warm is an issue...

Are the wall beams and infill exposed in all rooms?

Just this one which is half of three 2 up 2 downs. This top room was used as a chapel c1900 and I learned yesterday as a dance-hall in the late 20s and

Speaking as a nuclear engineer who's looking forward to soon selling new nuclear generating plants into England, could you tap the heat up a couple of notches? There's a good lad. 8-))

I LIKE the look of your place, so I'm supportative of those who argue in favour of a "gentle restoration" that preserves the look. Which leaves the heating question.

As you've observed, a house full of kids is nicely warm. Put the girls to the task of producing grandchildren and have them over often. And for the times when it's just you and Celia, well then, chase her around the house. Just be sure to have a note in your pocket to remind you about what to do when you catch her. 8-))

See ya, Arnie

Arnie Fero Pittsburgh, PA USA fero snipped-for-privacy@city-net.com

I keep losing the notes :-( I suspect you will be busy although I personally favour a return to coal-gas. At least new nukes will keep the eldest in work disposing of your waste :-) What are grandchildren??? regards Roland PS are you any good at pipelines? ;-)