Lima Class 20

My son was given a Lima Class 20 loco which must be 20 - 25 years old.

Tried it on the test track .... no movement just a loud hum and a rattle.

How to remove the shell ? Eventually noticde one of the buffers looked as it was pulled out so tried the others and presto off came the shell.

The reason for no movement was that the drive shaft had become displaced. Soon got that sorted but then noticed the drive wheels looked like they needed a good clean.

I know Hornby loco's sometimes had / have rubber traction wheels but did Lima ? Looked like a grove in the wheel was to accept the tyre but do the replacements come separately or do I need to replace the whole axle ?

The design of the power train looks a little poor to me. No disrespect to the original design team but the Class 20 looks a bit like they ran out of time when they came to the design of the cab and simply bolted an old shunter cab on the front but back to front.

Chris

Reply to
Dragon Heart
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"Dragon Heart" wrote

All of Lima's locos used traction tyres, but following the company's demise they have become extremely difficult to get hold of.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

Thanks John !

Reply to
Dragon Heart

Rubber tubing for the fish tank air supplies. Cut in to slices. If you have bought a malleable on,e it will now suffice as a traction tyre and be clear rather than the black ones previously.

Funny, I always thought the gear tower on the 20 was the better drive system than other lamer efforts !

Andy

Thanks John !

Reply to
Andy Sollis CVMRD

"Andy Sollis CVMRD" wrote

They were ok if you chucked the naff can motor and replaced it with a Mashima or similar, but why on earth was it not produced with both bogies powered? The extra cost would have been minimal.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

"John Turner" wrote They were ok if you chucked the naff can motor and replaced it with a Mashima or similar, but why on earth was it not produced with both bogies powered? The extra cost would have been minimal.

John.

If I knew that, I would be a rich man !

I did change the motor, and 6 months later bought a Bachmann ! Never looked back since fitting the express models lighting kit ! The Lima one has also not run since !

Andy

Reply to
Andy Sollis CVMRD

Thanks for the help folks !

Having ridden a few Italian motorbikes I can confirm their electric's were naff, mechanical engineering was brilliant, but electrical skills NO !

Chris

Reply to
Dragon Heart

"Dragon Heart" wrote

Been there and done that with both Ducati & Moto Guzzi bikes, but ironically never had any electrical problems. The only real problem I had with either was throttle &/or clutch cables failing!

Went back to Bee-ems after that.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

Bee-ems? Oh dear - common as muck down here - kick over a stone on the beach & there's a good chance of finding one lurking under it! (There's also lots of very rusty VW body panels - and a few soggy packets of biscuits, but the seagulls have had most of those)

The joys of sunny East Devon!

:-)

Reply to
theoldsalt

I think John means the "real" BMW motorbikes, air-cooled horizontaly-opposed twin? Not the crap they make today.

(kim)

Reply to
kim

"kim" wrote

Aye, my first Bee-em was an R75/5 - just wish I'd still got it.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

John Turner wrote :-

" Been there and done that with both Ducati & Moto Guzzi bikes, but ironically never had any electrical problems. The only real problem I had with either was throttle &/or clutch cables failing!

Went back to Bee-ems after that. "

They were OK until it rained, or damp or even riding past the local power station. Yes Ducati, Moto Guzzi, Laverda & MV all had, in my experience, a problem with damp getting into the electric's. Little embarrassing when the guy with the CZ or MZ next to you started his bike first kick after a short shower.

The 'old' boxer BMW's, borrowed a few of those off mates, also tried the 'new' K1's. On the old boxer you never got your leathers wet in the rain as long as you were moving and the K1's anti-lock braking system got me out of a few 'problems' but I never could get used to the 'cluncky' gear change.

Chris

Reply to
Dragon Heart

Chris,

I couldn't believe how clunky the gearbox on my R100S was after driving much older bikes like Triumph Speed twins, etc. I just left it in fifth and it would do 20 - 120 in that :-)

Jim.

Reply to
Jim Guthrie

"Dragon Heart" wrote

There was a knack to using the old Boxer gearboxes. If you took the tension off the gear pedal before operating the clutch, you could then change gear without the 'clunk'. Guess it was just one of those things you learnt through trail & error.

John.

Reply to
The Goon

John ( The Goon ) wrote :-

" There was a knack to using the old Boxer gearboxes. If you took the tension off the gear pedal before operating the clutch, you could then change gear without the 'clunk'. Guess it was just one of those things you learnt through trail & error. "

Never had one long enough to figure that out !

Jim's comment about the Triumph Speed twins I can well believe. My old mate used to own a couple of Tridents which we used for dispatch work in the early years, used to ferry body parts between hospitals for transplants etc. Tight 'S' bend ahead and in 5th ? Just a slight prod of the brake and then power it through ..... sigh Happy Days Happy Days !

Regarding Andy Sollis's idea of using rubber tubing for the fish tank air supplies as traction tyres. They only have the harder type round my neck of the woods so snaps rather than stretches. It got me thinking however and after a quick look in a few box's in the shed found a rubber shroud that went around the old double 'bullet' type car electrical connectors. After a few tries managed to get them over the wheels without a kink in them and will try them out next weekend.

Chris

Reply to
Dragon Heart

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