While I am on the subject of needing to completely repair my LOTI body, could someone point me in the direction of the correct set of lining decals please? I seem unable to locate any suppliers at the moment
Thanks
Steve
While I am on the subject of needing to completely repair my LOTI body, could someone point me in the direction of the correct set of lining decals please? I seem unable to locate any suppliers at the moment
Thanks
Steve
mindesign said the following on 12/06/2006 08:47:
Fox Transfers should be able to help -
thanks for the.......hic........tip
If sober, could you please elaborate on why I might choose one type of transfer over another?
Thanks
Steve
Steve,
The Methfix method gives you a bit of time to move the transfer around before it sets, so you don't need to be precise with your initial placement. With Pressfix, you have to be correct first time.
Jim.
Jim Guthrie said the following on 12/06/2006 10:57:
Also, with either type the advantage over waterslide is that there is no carrier film, so you get the "printed on" look. Having said that, Fox waterslide transfers are very good - nothing like the old Airfix transfers that had a carrier half an inch thick that went yellow after five minutes!
Hic!
With regard to transfer carrier film, aircraft modelers often apply a high gloss finish to a model before putting on water slide transfers, the carrier film cannot be seen on this finish, then a matt or semi-matt finish is applied over all. The high gloss finish can be an acrylic floor finish, in the States Johnson's Future, in Australia, Johnson's Pledge One Go. No doubt another name in the U.K. Regards, Bill.
Hi Bill
hope all is well on your side of town - Did I ever send you my pics of your Stirling after I made her part of my 'to-be-preserved rake'?
Steve
William Pearce said the following on 14/06/2006 07:47:
Railway modellers also apply a gloss before applying waterslide transfers (at least, they should do!)
However, the carrier film can always be seen from certain angles, simply by virtue of it being an extra layer in the finish. How much it can be seen depends on the manufacturer and the person applying it. Modern methods are virtually invisible though.
Shortly I'll be experimenting with producing my own rub-down transfers on my Alps printer. I can foresee several problems here, for which I can't foresee the solution!
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