Hi Simon, just sent off my first T-scale kit photo-etch file* to the photo-etchers. I blame YOU ;-) Also did it in Z scale, just for fun.

Regards, Greg.P.

*RCH / LMS 7 plank mineral wagon.
Reply to
Greg Procter
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I totally agree with the use of a centre drill (slocombe drill) to accurately start the hole, its rigidity not only allows accurate cutting of the centre hole but, if you have made a slight mistake in positioning the hole, it allows you to reposition the hole without the drill wandering back into the original. But use of a centre drill does not mean that you no longer need to accurately centre punch the position of the hole before centre drilling.

I just noticed that Arc Euro are now selling a reasonably priced small micro drill adaptor to allow fine manual feed which for me at least will mean less breakage of small drills as you can "feel" the feed with your fingertips.

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With regard to through pilot holes I would agree that they are not needed for small diameter holes, but once you get to say 5mm and above in metal then a pilot hole will reduce the amount of metal being removed by the final drill and particularly relieve work that the chisel edge at the tip of the drill would otherwise have to do. I've found that with holes 10mm and above it is wise to use several pilot drills of increasing sizes.

If you are drilling holes that will be "bearings" eg for axles to turn in then drill undersize and finish with a reamer.


Reply to
Alan Dawes

Thank you both, saves hassle with pilot and breakages (plus finger stabs). Will look into drill stand, but dont plan on doing this task more than have to. If manage to do 2 wheels ok then will have recouped costs :-) No problem with hole positioning theres a raised hollowed circle already in place.

Cheers, Simon

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