Spent my evening testing that unofficial Cura build and it's a keeper

Oct 18, 2026 Last reply: 16 hours ago 5 Replies
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Finally got around to installing that community build of Cura that's been floating around, and I have to say I'm impressed. The arc support alone is worth it, since I run Klipper on my V2.4 and those G2/G3 moves make a real difference on curves. Slicing my usual benchy-plus-brackets plate felt noticeably quicker too, nothing scientific but it clearly wasn't the same old wait. The build plate autosave is the sleeper feature for me. I once lost a whole hour of arranging parts becasue I closed the wrong window, so knowing it saves as I go is a relief. Also gave the inner-outer-inner wall order a try on a small enclosure print and the surface came out cleaner than my usual setup.



Haven't played with that bone-style infill yet, that's tonight's job. Running it on Fedora with zero hiccups so far, friend tested it on Windows 11 without complaints. Grab it from the GitHub releases page if you want to poke at it yourself, just remember it's a stranger's hobby code so keep your expectations reasonable.


I've been on the community build for a few months now, mostly printing Voron-adjacent parts like panel clips and chain mounts on my own printer. The wall order change was the first thing I noticed too. On PETG expecially, printing the outer wall last cut down on the little blobs I used to get where the seam meets the previous layer. Not perfect, but way less cleanup afterward with a deburring tool. Where I'd add a word of caution is the organic infill. I tried it on a couple of mid-size brackets and while it looks neat in the preview, my top surfaces needed more solid layers than usual to bridge over the sparse areas cleanly. First attempt with my normal two top layers sagged a bit in the middle. Bumping to four top layers and slowing those final layers down sorted it out. Also worth checking your minimum infill anchors if you go that route, otherwise the infill lines can start and end in awkward spots. The autosave works differently than some people assume, by the way. It saves your plate layout when you make changes, but if you have two projects open side by side like I sometimes do, you can still overwrite the wrong file without much warning. I keep a dated copy of anything important now out of habit from losing work years ago.

Arcs are the one thing I'd say everyone with Klipper should turn on right away. My round duct adapters came out visibly smoother, and layer times on curved sections dropped enough that I stopped getting the shiny ring pattern I used to see.

I gave that build a shot on my Trident for about three weeks, and my take ended up a bit different. The organic infill was the thing I was most curious about, and honestly it's a mixed bag. It looks great in the preview and on the top of cosmetic prints, but for anything structural it sags across the wide open spans unless you slow way down. On a batch of fan shrouds in ABS I also ended up using noticeably more filament than my usual grid pattern, so I switched back to the boring patterns for functional parts and kept organic for display stuff only. The arc moves didn't do much for me either way. My printer was already handling curves pretty clean before I tried it, so I couldn't pick out a real difference printing the same part side by side. The faster slicing is what kept me around, though. Big plates full of small parts used to take long enough that I'd go start the coffee, and now it's done before I've finished loading the sheet. Still on it, mostly, but I keep a second install of the regular version around for the odd profile that doesn't import cleanly.

Same on the arcs here, running a 2.4 with Klipper and the difference on rounded parts is night and day. One thing I had to do was add a resolution value under the gcode_arcs section in the printer config, otherwise the curves came through slightly faceted on big radius parts like a spool holder I printed last week. Once that was set the surfaces felt glassy to the touch. Curious if anyone else has compared the bone infill against gyroid on parts that need some flex, that's my plan for this weekend.

Tried the bone infill last night on a batch of DIN rail brackets and it does use noticeably less filament, parts came out lighter too. One annoyance though, it seems to ignore my little hop between moves on some of the crossing paths, ended up with a few drag marks where the nozzle skimmed a previous line. Anyone else run into that or is it just my profile acting up? Separately, I'm slicing on a ten year old desktop and the speed jump is the biggest quality of life change for me. Used to wander off for coffee mid-slice, now it's done before I've stood up.

Update: tried the bone infill like I said I would, and I can confirm the filament savings but also those drag marks. I did have better luck bumping up the z hop height before slicing rather than relying on the profile, seems the crossing paths behave better that way. Also added a resolution line under my arcs config after reading that one reply, and my spool holder curves are much smoother now.

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