discovery channel show or divorce?

Surely the amount of hydrogen absorped will make no difference to mild steel. Might get nervous with say aircraft "300M" steel fully hardened to "chisel edge" temper, but not "our" stuff - weldable general steel.

Anyway, I've tried hydrogenating steel this way and it doesn't work. I left steel in acids for days, wanting to perform scientific experiments on the hydrogen, and what I find is that there is a hydrogen gas evolution reaction at the surface, as the metal is eaten away, but no hydrogen makes it into the metal. Measured with an accurate hydrogen analyser - got nothing which could be detected to a detection limit about a hundredth of what you get in a low hydrogen xx18 rod.

It's thought the hydrogen is simply cannot get through the state of the metal's atomic bonds at the surface. Hydrogen sulphide (H2S) in the solution does something remarkable - the hydrogen from the evolution reaction can get in then. That's why "sour" crude oil messes-up a lot of steel pipe - it's acidic and contains H2S (the low-carbon zero-pearlite steels made in Europe and Japan and highly immune and satisfactorily cheap).

On the other hand, in the literature, there are investigations (including W. H. Johnson, 1875 and L. S. Darken and R. P. Smith, 1949) where they clearly had got hydrogen pick-up from acids - because they found out all about how hydrogen behaves, so they clearly got the stuff into the metal). Could never work out that one out. Maybe acids in those days had contaminants which had the same effect as hydrogen sulphide - maybe they did contain hydrogen sulphide - it's speculation.

Anyway, believe you don't have to fret about hydrogen pick-up during pickling when the steel is weldable mild steel.

Richard Smith

Reply to
Richard Smith
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- Oil *immediately* I believe is somewhere in here.


-- "I've got more trophies than Wayne Gretsky and the Pope combined!" - Homer Simpson Website @

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Reply to
Tim Williams

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 20:34:33 -0500, "Tim Williams" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Have I offended you? If so, I am sorry,and I am not quite sure how. I was simply passing on info I had heard, that may make sense.

***************************************************** I have decided that I should not be offended by anybody's behaviour but my own......the theory's good, anyway.
Reply to
Old Nick

I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show "Tim Williams" wrote back on Wed, 25 Aug 2004 20:34:33 -0500 in rec.crafts.metalworking :

Which if I recall correctly, is to keep atmospheric Oxygen and moisture from the steel, nor than anything else.

I'm reminded of the problems of trying to prep metal with Naval Jelly prior to painting. Couldn't keep it from getting some rust before the spray paint. (Specially if you had to use wet & dry sandpaper in "wet" mode. :-) )

tschus pyotr

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

Actually read the label on Naval Jelly and they suggest using a post process material they sell before paint. I haven't yet - plan on finding some and trying.


Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

I made a belly button massager/lent remover out of polystyrene, a rubber glove, electric motor and an old water-pick. It worked rather nice, but it would leave a rather large puddle on the floor when finished. I was a teen living at home at the time, and this was a project for our trades and industries class in High School. I got an A- for the project, honorable mention for 1# most original project, and 2# making my instructor damn near wet himself laughing so hard.

John Ernst

Diplomacy is the act of saying, "Nice Doggie" till you can find a big rock to bash in his skull.

Reply to
John J Ernst

I am sure that after an acid bath, baking soda and a wash in sunlight soap, a quick dry with air or heat, you will always have surface rust, the amount of surface rust will be very fine and removed with a wire wheel, the amount of salt after baking soda will be almost nill espically after washing with a detergent soap the most moisture and salt you have to worry about is from your fingers! sweat is corrossive to steel, (paintings as well musum stuff) ever notice a piece of clean steel sitting around the rust starts with the finger prints first. most oils already contain detergents anti-oxidents also good way to remove surface rust were talking fine eching stuff not ship wreak cannons. I sure the most guys here are not into refabing jets or IBM missles most torlances were using most machinists would be able to drive a truck through. the worst steel I had to weld was at a sand plant in a rock quarry, Its one of thoses cancer's places for steel, where the rot is below the surface of the steel 1/4 to 3/8 in to find bare steel, I used mig wire on structural steel with some really rusty stuff and heavy scale, with good results again a good wire will have this ability

Reply to
rodney johnson

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