Ernie -- Syncrowave vs. Aircrafter

I used to have a Syncrowave 250 since some time ago.
Manual:
http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Miller/Miller-Syncrowave-250-Manual.pdf
I also brought home a Miller Aircrafter 330ST welder that I bought from the military (Rock Island Arsenal).
Manual:
http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Miller/Miller-Aircrafter-330ST-Manual.pdf
There is essentially two questions.
1. Syncrowave vs. Aircrafter. The Aircrafter can obviously put out more power, up to 450-500 amps. What I am not sure is whether I need that power for anything I may encounter. I will keep whatever one makes sense and will sell another.
2. This Aircrafter unexpectedly came with a dual torch setup. It has two torches connected, with valves to select which torch gets argon, and both torches are cooled with water.
One torch is WP-20 and another is WP-18 (the big size).
So what I think that I should do is, even if I keep the Syncrowave, to take off that dual torch set up and use it, so that I can use the bigger torch for welding thick aluminum or some such. I suppose that there are not any downsides to that. Am I missing anything or not?
Anyone has been in the same boat?
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Ignoramus4582 wrote:

The only problem I can think of is that you would probably want a thick insulating cap for the unused torch to prevent the HF from starting arcs on things you werent expecting. You might wind up with less HF energy, but I doubt it would be noticable.
Good Luck, BobH
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I think that I could just hang it on something insulating, like wood.
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Ignoramus4582 wrote:

My Syncrowave is setup with an extra cam-loc connection for the stick welding lead. When the TIG torch is in use (95% of the time), the open cam-loc sits on the bottom frame and shows no signs of arcing issues. When the stick lead is in use, the TIG torch is coiled up in a steel toolbox bolted to the top of the Syncrowave, with a rubber crutch tip / chair foot over the end.
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Pete C. wrote:

Either choice seems pretty workable. I have the Tweeco inline QD's on the electrical, so that I can hook up the stinger or use an extension cable on either the stinger/torch or the ground lead. I also have QD's on the gas line. In the past, I was using big gas cooled torches and swapped torches to get a smaller torch for tight workspaces or a large torch for higher current capacity. Since I changed over to the water cooled WP-20, I have only needed to swap back-caps. I don't remember the last time I used the stinger.
Good Luck, BobH
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wrote:

Every one of my tig rigs has a stick holder hanging off a hook on the cart frame. As long as its a couple inches away from the frame, its not going to arc.
HF makes restarting 7018 sooooo much nicer <G>
Gunner
"They couldn't hit an elephant at this dist..." Maj. Gen. John Sedgewick, killed by a sniper in 1864 at the battle of Spotsylvania
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Specifically the difference between Aircrafter and Syncrowave, besides amperage ranges (500 vs. 310 max) is that Syncrowave has AC balance adjustment. Plus, my Syncrowave has a pulse attachment PC-300, which will not work with Aircrafter without some modifications, or maybe not at all.
So, I think that what I will do is take the dual torch setup and sell the Aircrafter with one torch only, and will keep the Syncrowave.
i

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Ignoramus4582 wrote:

It may not be an issue for you, but the Syncrowave is a smaller, lighter machine. I am severely space limited and if the smaller machine had more useful features, it would be an easy choice for me. I have a Syncrowave 250 now and it is a thoroughly nice machine.
Good Luck, BobH
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Ignoramus4582 wrote:

Got docs on that PC-300?
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http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Miller/Miller-PC-300-Pulse-Control-Manual.pdf
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Ignoramus4582 wrote:

Hi Iggy,
Both the balance and the pulse on the 250 will let you run the welder "outside the box" meaning both thinner and thicker material than normal. The 2 torch solution is good.
A thing you may want to check on that 300 is the NEMA rating plate on the back, the RI Arsonal used to spec all welders at 100% duty cycle and all welders had to run 8 hours at 100% before being placed in service. So you may see a plate on the back saying NEMA I, output 230amps 21volts 100% duty cycle. I don't know if Miller made special plates for this but Hobart and Linde did (seen several SS300s and CyberTigs with that NEMA I rating). And if they had plugs on them they were the 600V 100A explosion proof version (BIG BUCKS).
Also the 250 can dim the house lights on a 100amp service and the 300 can just put 'em out.
Matt
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Great. It is very good news. I have already removed that dual torch stuff. Some strange 90 degree LH water connectors were broken, I will try to braze them or find replacements.

I just looked and did not find any such label. The Crouse Hinds plug, indeed was there.
Did you work at that Arsenal? Care to share if that was a productive place? Did they create anything unusual?

My house is on a 200A service, and yes, I think that the Aircrafter can really put out the lights. Never ran the Syncrowave over 250 amps though.
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Ignoramus5437 wrote: (snip)

Nope, company I worked for did business there, that company (founded 1896 Peoria, Il) had relations all over the midwest and I got into a lot of unusual places. The best part of going into other folks shops and plants is seeing all the different working solutions for things.
Create anything Unusual? I'll bet steve could use one of them 155s' to shoot gophers with. It might be hard to sneak up on one though (the next shot needs 3 bags)....
Matt
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The syncrowave is definitely the better machine. There have been several systems over the years for attaching multiple torches to one machine. One of the problems is if current is going to the torch you aren't using, the the hig frequency is also going to both torches. This can reduce your high freq on each torch, plus there is a shock hazzard and RF interference from that ungrounded high freq.
I set my system up with quick disconnects so I can swap torches in about 5 seconds.
I have 5 torches to pick from . My favorite torch of all time is the CK230 flexhead, with superflex cables.
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Ernie, where did you buy your quick disconnects? I think that your idea is better than mine. I would rather go the quick disconnect route.
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I use Western Enterprises Quick Connects for all my hoses and torches.
http://www.westernenterprises.com/enterprises/fla_quick_connects.php
I use the neutral gas connectors for the gas, and oxygen connectors for the water. The oxygen connectors have check valves built is so when you disconnect the torch the water stays in the hoses.
I use Tweco #1 connectors for the power.
The trick to this is that each TIG torch has to have it's own water block.
http://www.welding-direct.com/45powcabad1.html
This splits the water, and power. You run a short cable pigtail from the power lug on the water block, and a short water hose to your return connector. I have my water from the pump going through a standard water filter so I don't get sediment in my hoses.
Here is a shot of my setup
http://www.stagesmith.com/gallery/shop_projects/tig_stuff/1584.html
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:

Now that's a busy setup (nice), for the 275 I have a Linde WP18 and a.... spare 18, for the Kemppi a little 9 air cooled.
I saw the CK gas lens and clear cup setup, how do you like it? The replacement cable I got for the 18 was CK and I took a long look at pictures and specs included with it of those very parts...
Matt
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The only pyrex cup gas lenses that are worth it are the super wide mouth gas saver. Still the pyrex cups are very fragile, so you have to be very careful where you lay the torch down, and the glass gets very hot.
I use the super wide mouth for very fine stainless steel and titanium joints. It was designed for Boeing to use on Titanium.
CK is by far my favorite TIG torch company. It doesn't hurt that I can drive to their shop and pick up a will call order, or get a new custom torch the same day at most Seattle area welding suppliers.
They are based in Auburn, Washington, across the street from Tec Welding Sales.
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:

What flow settings for the gas saver??
Matt
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Around 20 CFH
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