Receiver Question

has a limited supply of the new generation Berg 6 rx's. Im gonna order one myself!

**&P=7This is the module I have for channel 38. $50. They also have a synthisized version but kinda overkill for what you will probably need. You did not go overboard with the 9C. I have a Hitec Flash 5X, a Futaba

6XAS, and a 9C and the 9C is the one I use 99% of the time. I only use the Hitec for slope flying and my Slow Stick sometimes. The 6XAS is collecting dust but gets occasional use in the shop for testing while building. You will love your 9C! Oh, the modules just plug in and out with no problems and your memories will not change from module to module meaning any memory you program for a certain plane on a certain freq, will stay in memory. Just gotta remember which module you need for a particular plane. I had a head scratcher one day at the field when I couldnt get my Kaos to respond because I had the wrong module in. Worked fine once I switched to the proper module.

Hitec used to but stopped. My father has one but its the standard sized Slim Supreme whateveritis.

The stock Futaba rx is a bit large for a Slow Stick and 7 channels is a bit of overkill although all but one of my glow planes use 7+ channel Futaba rx's, even the 4 channel planes. I try to go for dual aileron servos on my kit built planes tho so I do utilize channel 6. Unfortunately, the market just isnt there for Hitec and Futaba to offer 6 meter micro rx's. FMA is just a rip off charging 20 bucks + more for the 50mhz rx than the

72mhz rx.

The 9 channel rx comes standard with the 9C. Mine is in a drawer at the moment waiting for something that will actually use that many channels such as another Ultra Stick 60 so I feel for ya about using it on the Slow Stick. Honestly, I would check out a plug in module for 72mhz to use with a micro

72mhz rx for the Slow Stick. My Slow Stick has one of those GWS teenytiny rx's on it.

| Doug McLaren wrote: | | > In fact, those are the only micro receivers that I'm aware of that are | > available on the 50 mHz band at all. Are there _any_ others? | | Wow, you know your stuff!

Indeed I do! I can google with the best of them!

To be fair, I don't own any mini or micro ham receivers. The reason is that they cost so much more, it's easier to just get 72 mHz gear for my smaller planes. But I'd probably buy it if it was the same size ...

I'd really like to pick up a few of the Sombra 1 receivers though, if they ever make them available again. That would be slick -- able to use any ham or 72 mHz frequency I want ...

Okay. I am ready to fly!! Or crash as the case may be. I have my radio programmed and ready to go. Learned a few things and nearly lost plane in programming phase.

(1) Just because your friends ESC has a safety feature that requires your throttle to be advanced to 100% for 2 seconds and then to 0% to arm the throttle...doesn't mean yours will. I was trying to do this and found this not to be the case (At the same time I learned #2.)

(2) Check to make sure your throttle is responding in the proper direction while holding on to your aircraft. Picture the following;

Trying to arm throttle push up to 100% wait, back to 0%. Hmm didn't hear the beeps I was expecting. Puzzled look. Push throttle up again and start to pull back. motor starts unexpectedly..didn't expect it to actually move by now. Panic. Pull throttle down to 0%. Shoot! It's reversed! Plane darts across table knocks over some things. Propeller nut, washers, and prop spin off shaft and go flying. Whew, finally get throttle OFF and grab plane. Prop hex key is stripped out. Nobody died.

Okay everything is working. It is programmed and responds correctly. Turn off receiver. Motor starts and plane darts into glue bottle, box, etc. &^%*&^%*&^%*&^%R(&^%&^$#%!

Turn off Receiver BEFORE turning off Transmitter.

Still having fun. Carl

| (2) Check to make sure your throttle is responding in the proper | direction while holding on to your aircraft. Picture the following; | | Trying to arm throttle push up to 100% wait, back to 0%. Hmm didn't | hear the beeps I was expecting. Puzzled look. Push throttle up again | and start to pull back. motor starts unexpectedly..didn't expect it | to actually move by now. Panic. Pull throttle down to 0%. Shoot! | It's reversed!

Yup, we've all been there. Some of us more than once :)

A good rule of thumb is to not put the prop on the plane at all until everything else is done. That way, when you screw up and accidently send it to full throttle while testing things out, nothing happens.

It's really tempting to put the prop on early -- it looks good, you don't lose it, etc. But it's something that has bitten (literally) many people ...

For some reason many ESCs seem to be reversed. I realize that the directions are pretty much arbitrary, but still, it seems like it would make sense to make them fit the standard receivers. But yet most seem reversed ...

Is the default throttle stick direction different on different brands of transmitters?

scary isnt it. Like he said , dont put the prop on it and if it is a brushed motor , put two LED's on the motor leads (one green and one red reversed from each other) and see what light comes on. Red if reversed and green if ok. Or you could use light bulbs with steering diodes. Assume you have a current limiting resistor in place first. I am a tinkerer.

Care to sketch this up for me as well as specify the LEDs. I'd like to do this, sounds fun.

Carl, Send me your email address and I will. I couldnt find it on QRZ.COM

73 Jim W1HRM

Put a 1k resistor in series with two parallel LEDs facing in opposite directions. The longer LED leads are the 'anodes', so if a particular LED is lit, that means the longer lead is at least 1.5V more positive than the negative lead, at least for standard red or green LEDs. The 1k resistor will limit current to about 5mA.

Parts at Radio shack, or your local equivalent.

Alternately, just go buy a multimeter, which can often be had for under $10.

No, its futaba transmitters that are recvresed.

I have a fluke multimeter, but I'd like to play with LEDs. Carl

| scary isnt it. Like he said , dont put the prop on it and if it is a | brushed motor , put two LED's on the motor leads (one green and one red | reversed from each other) and see what light comes on. Red if reversed | and green if ok. Or you could use light bulbs with steering diodes. | Assume you have a current limiting resistor in place first.

Of course, you don't need to jump through any of these hoops.

If you're worried if it's running the right direction or not, brushed or not, just rest the prop on it (don't put the nut on -- just the prop) and point the plane up and give it a little power, and see if the prop goes the right way or not. Or just give it a little power with no prop on, and feel which way it's going with your fingers, and compare that to the way the prop goes.

| I am a tinkerer.

Then tinker. I tinker too, but usually only when there's not an easier way.

Carl / KG6YKL wrote in news:G77se.101$SF5.63 @fed1read07:

Yeah . . . when I'm fooling around with an electric, with the battery & motor hooked up and the prop on, I wear safety glasses. Things happen, you know? Once I was revving up a small brushless motor while holding the nose straight up to check the thrust/weight, when the motor pulled off its mount. Of course, the motor and the prop whipped around madly for maybe a quarter of a second before one of the wires pulled out of the motor, but that was enough time to chew up the front of the fuselage and take a nip off of my knuckle.

Even if you're not deliberately starting the motor, you could bump the Tx, or something could fall on the Tx, or you could have a metal-metal contact that drives the receiver crazy . . .

Like the other poster said, it's best to keep the prop *off* as long as you can. But when you really need to spin the prop . . . never forget that unlike glow engines, it's very easy to accidently start an electric motor.