On topic - Coolant



How about buying distilled water at Wal-Mart?
i
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If you are only talking about a few machines, buy it premixed. A couple of pails of concentrate should take core of topping off for a while.
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Dan

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OK, time for follow up!
Ron Smith, co owner of Star Chem came out to my shop, took water samples, and coolant mix samples. He will get back to me with results, in the meantime, the new stuff arrived on Monday and I have replaced the mix in 1 machine, the VF-5. Cutting 4340 hr right now, part goes into machine at 11 lbs, and comes out at about 13 ounces, good test part, finishes look better already, new stuff is not as sticky, time will tell about rust. FWIW new stuff is Starcut 775AL. Will report findings as they occur.
"D"
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Proctologically Violated wrote:

There's reason when doing a change of coolants that every mfg. that I know of recommends a chemical type of cleaning before switching products. I think what may occur is you screw up the additive package.
Best, Steve
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Regards,
Steve Saling
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We also changed from Val-Cool which rusted lots of our equipment, collets, tool holders, etc. Since changing to what I recommended (Blasocut) all our problems stopped. No more sticking tools on the Haas's, no more rust, no more problems period. Everyone here is very, very happy with what I recommended.
We run it at a 7 percent mix. Recommended is anywhere from 5 percent to 15 percent.
Jon Banquer San Diego, CA
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I bought a mixer for about $140 a few years ago, and it's one of the best purchases I've ever made. It's just a pipe with a valve on it that goes down into the drum of coolant. You hook up the garden hose to one side, and an exit hose to the other side. A knob on the top adjusts the concentration. The coolant is 100% mixed and no problems with separation. Put the coolant drum on a little drum dolly, and just roll it to the machine that needs coolant. Hook up the garden hose, and you're filling the sump with perfect coolant.
We've been using Hangsterfers S500 for the last 5-6 years without trouble. It's a great coolant. We collect the concentrate from the drain hoses on the mist collectors, pour it back in the drum, and use it again.
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Anyone have a link to a comparison chart of specific products, ito performance, bang fer buck, etc?
This article compares classes of oils, not specific brands, products.
http://www.stle.org/assets/document/29_PerfectMWF.pdf
Informative charts. One "explains" the makeup of 4 classes of oils.
Another shows the properties, pros/cons. Synthetics seem to be a good bet, except they have have poor "lubricity", poor rust protection, which may be solved by additives.
Another shows what constitutes light-every heavy duty applications. Light: Milling! Mod: turning Heavy: drilling, sawing, cut-tapping Very Heavy: broaching, form tapping, reaming, threading, gear cutting.
The last is a little vague, but shows what is contained in the "soluble oils", for application intensity.
I think we here tend to use "soluble oil" as an all inclusive generic, but this article shows that "soluble oil" is a specific class, distinct from semi-synthetic, synthetic.
The OP's rusting problem would seem to be from a synthetic with no additives.
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Mr. PV'd

Mae West (yer fav CongressShill) to the Gangster (yer fav Lobbyist):
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