New Wiring

Dec 06, 2005 5 Replies

Hello, I just had new wiring done in my newly-purchased fixer-upper house. When i turn on the switch the radio clicks in response, plus the new wiring job is blowing out certain kinds of light bulbs. One of the workman said i should use 130 amp bulbs instead of 120, however i only use what the store, such as WalMart, sells. Why do i have to go to special stores to purchase "special" lights bulbs?


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What brand and type of light bulbs are burning out?

How long are they lasting before they burn out?

Are there other brands/ type of bulbs which are not burning out?

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Hello, Bill, One box of bulbs was incandescent soft light, while the package of two was the curly-looking (sort of flourescent, 25 watt bulbs, that is screwed into a regular incandescent socket, that shouldhave lasted for 5 years (the 100 watt of same type out in the enclosed porch is fine)). These blow-out bulbs blow out instantly. The tiny halogen bulbs in the motion-detector, outside light also blew out, but took more time. They told me to use 130 amp bulbs, not 120. That is all i know right now.

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thats 130 VOLT lamps (industrial grade) they do not cost too much more and last quite a bit longer.

Its not necessarily a problem that the radio clicks when you turn on a light. As for the bulbs, you may have a loose, shared neutral in the new wiring. Also when you install screw shell lamps, make sure you get them seated tightly, not just until they pop on; a loose connection at the socket will wear them out faster.

The 130 volt recommendation is a good one. They last longer and use slightly less wattage.

"John Ray" wrote in message news:MJudnZNhReGB8QvenZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

A loose neutral on a 3 wire circuit is no small thing. ( it can cause 240V across your 120 volt loads). I agree that it is a real possibility. If you have no knowledge of electricity, try to isolate the circuit(s). blowing the lamps by turning off breakers. When it is identified, check to see if the cable (romex) for that circuit leaving the panel contains a red, a black, and a white insulated wire. If so, and the red and black are connected to single pole (no handle tie to adjacent breakers) breakers, then the nuetral connections need to be checked all the way through. In my experience it is fairly unusual for a radio to "pop" when the lights are turned on unless there are some newish electronics attached. I have found a device such as remote fan controls or the like will bring on this phenomena. Often something containg a DC circuit will pop when turned off, because of collapsing magnetic fields. Older radios were known for this. If you added anything like remote controls, or any wireless controls to your project, you might try temporarily disconnecting them to see if the problem stops. You are right that you shouldn't have to buy special bulbs, but on a properly functioning system 130 v bulbs will last long enough to be worth the extra money. Many times incandescent bulbs are harmed by vibration, and shock. Front porch lights are notorious for being short-lived because they shake when the door is shut hard, and a near-molten filament can't withstand that much shock. Ditto for fans with light kits, or filament bulbs that move for any reason. I purchase "traffic and signal" bulbs from Grainger's when I have a problem area like this. They often go for over 4 years, when other bulbs lasted less than a month. (Down side= 4-6 bucks each!) A good quality flourescent lamp will handle shock pretty well too. However, the pin type will often fall out of their sockets when mounted vertically.

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