I'm sure I can impression this-other methods are do-able too, but is there a quick way to remove the ignition lock? Don't have any books that cover Mercury itself-some Fords that year. Pin cylinder and it should use 1127. Or, are there code locations? Not worried about doors-very do-able. Any help greatly appreciated.
goma.
pull the door.. MIGHT be the same as ignition, and the code should?? be on lock trunk/glove is different
--Shiva--
My info goes back to 56 and says to see 65-66 Mustang for 56-66 Mercury (all models). Info for that is primary operates ignition and door shares all 5 cuts. Secondary trunk and glove shares all 5 cuts. Impression or decode door. No mention of codes stamped anywher and don't remember having seen any. That Leon guy that posts here sometimes would probably know.
Thanks for confirming Steve, That's what my older AutoSmart showed for that. And in the ASP Book, what it shows for Fords of that year, which I am assuming Merc would use same equipment.
Thnaks, goma.
OK here is my input. You might have an exposed clip on door lock look there first. If that is not a go the locks impression well *IF* you do not have a split plug in which case it will be next to imposable to impression.
The ignition does not tend to split like the door plugs but it does happen from time to time' To remove ignition turn plug to accessory and use pin in poke hole.
The best way to impression is gently. The passenger lock might be your best bet.
If you remove the door cyl be careful not to break the pawl. I know someone that has some NOS if you do have a broken pawl.
Also it was quite common for the codes to have been written on the owners manual, unfortunately, it is rare to find an owners manual.
Roger, Don't see any poke-hole unless it is concealed behind the dash? Or behind the notch on the plug? Ignition does appear to be split-hear "gentle". It looks like the ignition will impression. If not , I try pass. door. Thanks , goma.
poke hole is NOT visible from front.. need the lock out of the dash to see the hole. about 10:30 and back a bit from the front edge and MUST be turned to get the plug out
--Shiva--
Goma,
I haven't been on for a few days so this may be too late. They can be tough to impression as most of them have a couple of spool or mushroom pins in them. You should find the code on the pass door lock. It's on the boss opposite the pin chamber cover. There is a spring clip under the weather strip on the edge of the door that holds the lock in. To get the ignition switch out remove the key and you will see a small slot on each side of the trim ring. Using a screwdriver that fits in both slots snug turn the trim ring to the left about a 1/4-1/8 turn. It should come right off. Sometimes you can get them off with your fingers. Shiva is right about the retainer pin on the ign cylinder itself.
Leon Rowell, Locksmith "Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"
goma865 wrote:
Leon, Thanks alot for that. You too Shiva. It's not too late.Did try impressioning, but part of that was being gentle... Did find the clip on the door-really on there, but may try again. Getting another ignition lock just to be safe. I did twist around some and noticed that the front moved some. Let you know how it works out.
goma.
HEY.. IF this takes the HURD key... the 1125, on the Hurds that i do i FRONT shim them and get the plug out.. this the DOOR locks..
sometimes there is a 'brass partial wafer swaged in place towards the back top side that you need to GENTLY pry up to get the plug unlocked so it can be slid out.
--Shiva--
No problem goma. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Le> Leon,
Shiva,
I have shimmed a few of them myself. That plug retainer can be a bugger to get out sometimes too.
It should take the ILCO 1127 & 1127A or National/Curtis H13 & H14 or Star HFD1 & OFD1 blank.... If you can find them. :^)
Leon
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