work arounds for cheap keys when cutting by code.

Hi Folks,

Long ago I bought a batch of surplus keys. Most of them were Cole, though there were other brands mixed in as well. These blanks gave me fits last night when I cut keys to code.

I was re-pinning a brand new set of American Lock padlocks for my mother in law last night. I cut a new set of keys for her because her old locks were pretty worn and her keys were second or third generation. I wanted the bitting to remain the same so my brother in law would not be locked out. I used AM3 blanks (5 pin).

The keys I created worked in two of the three padlocks, but not smoothly. A pin or two were dragging, making the keys difficult to turn. I re-measured everything several times. I fudged the spacing (wide cuts) and experimented with the depths. I finally disassembled one of the cylinders to see where I was going wrong.

It turns out that the milling on these old Cole blanks were about .006 inch thinner than the originals, and they were about .005 inch closer to the back of the key. The key rides on these millings. The end result was that I had to add .011 inch to the cuts to line up the pins correctly.

So the question to the group: When cutting by code, how do you make sure that these little discrepancies aren't messing up your keys? Do you buy only originals? Do you have a spacific brand that you trust? Do you keep track of the fact that with brand X you add a few thousandths? Other tricks?

Thanks,

Daniel

Reply to
dbs__usenet
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Know your sources; this can be one of the differences between brands of second-source blanks.

Know that there are sometimes variants in a key blank over time, even if it is nominally the same keyway. I've got a bunch of original Yale keys that don't work in all Yale locks which supposedly take that keyway.

Know that some blanks ride on the back of the blade, some on one of the keyway grooves -- which is one reason some key machines come with a variety of different vise faces for you to select from.

If in any doubt, take a micrometer to the original and the blank and check. Whenever possible, check your work against the actual lock.

Reply to
Joe Kesselman (yclept Keshlam

the Local Ford dealer uses an aftermarket transponder blank... I cut a key to code, the mechanical key, works ALL the locks, an if its a NON transponder, they can copy it, and it work, but they cannot copy the transponder ones they use, the difference is in the center web, about .010 wider. --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

This is a problem, but fortunately not all that often.

Some Ilco Ru-2 have given me problems, and Ilco brand M-4 don't go into the keyway. This from memory from about 1985.

Not very common problem. But irritating as can be. When I read the subject line, I thought you were going to ask "well, if I'm cutting keys for a Weiser system, what blanks can I use for substitute in the shop, just for setup". \

I've got a lot, or used to have a lot of old blanks like IN-20 that work nicely in Kwikky, but don't look right some how. Wrong bow shape. I use those for shop work.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Thanks for the feedback folks. I was hoping that I wasn't the only one to beat my head against the wall trying to make poor quality blanks work.

My FB 200 does not have changable jaws, but I can see where that would make a major difference with some keys. Is there a list anywhere of common keys that should be alligned by the milling when the you duplicate them?

Thanks,

Daniel

Reply to
dbs__usenet

No list that I am aware of, but cheap, and or improperly milled blanks are annoying. As an example some keys ride in the lock plug on an index groove, and some ride on the cylinder, while a few ride on the bottom of the keyway (rare).

It seems that the best way is to use decent quality blanks and good machines kept in calibration.

Unfortunately the machines made by FB are like the Yugo.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Don't let Pad hear you say that about the Yugo..... :^)

Leon Rowell

Roger Shoaf wrote:

Reply to
Leon Rowell

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