Well I finished up a tool today that I've been wanting for some time. It's a basic tap starting alignment tool that can be clamped in a drill chuck, etc. A 1/2" diameter rod clamps into the drill chuck and a hollow cylinder with a tap wrench mounted on the end slides and rotates on the rod. This doo-dad could also double as a "sensitive drill chuck" in a lathe's tailstock.
The design difficulty I had was that I have two sizes of tap wrench and I wanted them both to mount onto the end of the cylinder. The large wrench has an O.D. of .75" and the small one has an O.D. of .375", so I bored out a .755" diameter socket in the end of the cylinder deep enough to hold the wrench. I then milled a slot through the socket wide and deep enough to accept the t-handle of the wrench, so that when seated in the cylinder, the butt of the wrench bottoms out in the socket while the t-handle bottoms out in the slot. For the smaller wrench I turned a collar .75" O.D., .380" I.D. and about .25" longer than the socket is deep. Next I milled a slot similar to the one in the socket, only for the snaller diameter t-handle. To use the smaller wrench I just slip the collar onto its end and then slip it into the cylinder. (I might cross drill and tap a small hole for a set screw in the collar and attach it permanently to the small wrench).
I got my first chance to try it out tonight on a chunk of steel that I'm temporarily using as a toolpost on my lathe. This chunk of steel is just bolted to the topslide and has a 1/2" wide and deep slot milled into its side to take 1/2" toolbits. Three 7/16" set screws clamp the bit from the top. I got tired of removing the thing each time I wanted to mount a boring bar (1/2" shank HSS) so I drilled a 1/2" hole in the side of this chunk of steel, rotated it
90 deg. and cross drilled a tap hole for 7/16-14. All of this was done with the work mounted in position on the topslide and the drill bits clamped in the 3-jaw chuck. Next was tapping the hole of the clamp screw. I chucked my new tap alignment tool in the 3-jaw and went to tapping the hole. It worked bee-uuu-tif-ully!! No muss, no fuss, no sidewinding threads! The t-handle cleared the ways nicely, even when extended to increase leverage.There is a bit of slop where the cylinder slides on the rod, and that's because I could only drill the .5" hole and it's not completely straight, forcing me to turn the rod undersized. I should be able to ream the hole oversize a bit and make a new rod with a true slip fit. Once I get a reamer....
Now I'll have to dig out my knurling tool and make it pretty!