Insurance? Whats that?
The methodology of the left has always been:
And it wasn't much work either. But it's still harder than posting, and that's the maximum level of exertion that Gunner is familiar with. Plus he needs to go through a corrugated roof, which would be easiest and best if only he were capable of some modest welding instead of boasting about tons of machines and filler rod.
No, I have faith that Gunner can figure out how to put a chimney hole in a galvanized iron roof.
For Gunner: Knew a guy up in Maine who poured his cellar walls without making allowance for the water pipe. When it came time to do the plumbing he was faced with the job of busting a hole through a 12 inch concrete wall. And he'd just bought himself one of those S&W model 29's ....
(Probably not quite the way you want to put the pipe hole in your roof :-)
Arf arf. Right after he "figures out" how to do the fourth wall and the rest of the closing in?
This thread will be a great resource for the long list of readers seeking advice on how to install a woodstove for heating the outdoors.
"Walls and insulation? We don't need no stinking walls and insulation"
- Usenet, RCM, 2012 BGC (before great cull)
Might need to put on muffs and plugs
This is the ceiling Im having to deal with. Its not quite...galvanized iron roofing. If it were..Id simply cut a hole..run up the pipe and then put a plate and then foam under it. This has 4" deep/ square corregations.
From 2009
Hell..I'll go out in a bit and snap some photos of what it looks like now
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
I've been doing some tests with the galvanized sheetmetal ducts available at HomeDepot. They are not designed for wood stoves. If you put one directly above a cast iron stove it will get a deep red color if the flues are open and it is well stoked. The cheap ones are sold flat and you pop the joint together. A couple of 7" hose clamps would prevent it from popping open from the heat change. When they cool back down the metal is discolored white, no longer shiny. A significant amount of heat is left in the room from the chimney so I'm using thin, cheap material and trying to keep the combustion down in the stove.
Beware Zinc Fever from the evaporated zinc.
Joe Gwinn
Mine works fine out through the basement wall and up the outside. The cleanout is 30" above the dirt, enough space for a bucket underneath to catch the soot. I use a weighted cleaning brush hanging from a waterpipe jib crane to clean the chimney from the ground.
You might locate yours low enough to reach, high enough to get a cleaning brush and rod in unless you can position a ladder to clean it from the top, which is awkward but MUCH less unpleasant.
Sometimes you see a -brick- chimney built like that:
jsw
Run it out the wall, maybe behind the belt sandah station, and clamp it to the top of the gutter or roof frame there. There's absolutely no need to cut holes in the roof.
This just in: I WANT ONE of these cool Jeeps! It's a wannabe MOG.
In 1984 I put a dryer vent (4") through 10" poured foundation with a
3/8" skil xtra tool (hammer drill). Started out with twenty two 3/16" holes around the circumference then enlarged them from both sides, then knocked the core out with a sledge and morta ered in a piece of galvanized duct and mounted a damper/deflector over the outside. took about a week allowing for tool cooling, thirst quenching time. I probably would have saved a lot of time and beer money by renting a core drill!
The guy was a member of the Air force pistol team as I was and had brought out his brand new pistol to show the boys. We all got to shoot it (mostly a single shot was sufficient experience) and were talking about how powerful the damned thing was when he recounted the story about the hole in the concrete wall. He said that he'd built a little shelter out of scrap wood and was shooting through a hole in the side of the shelter. Said that shrapnel was flying about some :-)
Another thought, in passing. How often does it rain in your locale? I lived at Edwards for a couple of years and it rained once, for about
20 minutes.
The old time "stove pipes" were sheet metal with a interlocking joint lengthwise. One end had a sort of corrugated pattern rolled into it to make it small enough to slide into the next section. and they would get red hot too, if you didn't know what you were doing.
The idea is to build a fire in the stove to warm things up, not large enough to have flames shooting up the chimney.
Just doing tests. Got it nice and hot, then ran up to full heat with hardwood slats. Flames were going up a couple of feet in the pipe. Normal use is with both dampers closed so I don't spend so much time with the sawbuck. I ventilated the area when curing the stove and pipe. I've heard of zinc fume fever before. Used to cook over charcoal in galvanized washtubs.
Those 6"dia. galvanized vent pipes are $8.20 for a 5' length and a couple of SS clamps are $1.98 ea.
Pretty much what Ive been thinking. Just finding the vent angles at a price I can afford is an issue around here.
Build it..and we will come!!!
Nice rig!!
The methodology of the left has always been:
We get about 4"-6" of rain a year here. Though we are in the middle of the usual 7 yr dought cycle at the moment.
So we might get 3" this year, by the time summer comes along.
"Rainy Season" is in January usually..so we might get a couple inches then.
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
Where can I find them? I could use about 12' and 2 right angles
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
Sounds like he's talking about the old galvanized furnace duct that runs to the registers.
Do you ever catch someone junking an old mobile home? They have an insulated flue that would work, and they aren't worth much as scrap.
So get thee to a library and grab the Audel Handy Book to make it yourself.
I'm only $100k short for a Mog.
That's standard Home Depot furnace duct. It sits flat on a shelf looking like 2' X 5' galvanized sheet with the interlocking joint down one length.
Oh..I can borrow the tools from Leigh Knudsen, he has all the DiAcro stuff. But learning how to make just a few pieces.....shrug
?? The most expensive one I could find was a customized one for $30k
This one is only $13k and only has 6500 miles on it
There are others for less than $5k available.
The methodology of the left has always been:
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.