Kindling maker

Dont have it here in my part of California. Ill have to see if they can order it.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner
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I tried those HD galvy vent pipes to extend the chimney, to see how tall it needed to be to release the smoke above ground turbulence. They didn't last one winter.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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The hammered flange and sleeve insert the clamps are holding fit double-wall Class A pipe, quite nicely. The other half of the wash tub rests on the anvil. I left the tub rim protruding out to attach bracing to it later. It was assembled with #5 screws and then stainless steel pop rivets. It was the lower section of the test extension.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

At least you were able to do a cheap test before figuring out what size to get of the expensive stuff.

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It's definitely not designed for a wood stove.

Reply to
Stumpy

Looks like that galvanized Floor Deck stuff they use on commercial roofs and as the concrete base for a poured upper floor. Not your usual Raised Rib Roofing stuff that you can make a flashing for.

If you don't want to weld up a Fishmouth Tee and go out the wall, you can make a sleeve an inch bigger than the vent pipe and a few inches higher than the roof ridges, then put a rain collar around the stovepipe to keep it from dripping inside.

As for the one or two totally blocked deck panel channels, the simplest way would be cut in a 2" bar-sink scupper drain, then run it out the side wall with some 1-1/2 mild steel tubing.

(I was about to say ABS DWV or PVC, but there's that small problem of the stove heat... And 1-1/2" Copper is a fortune.)

If you want to get fancy you cut holes sideways at the root of each blocked channel and weld in two or three chunks of mild steel tube to cross over to the clear channels on each side. Water goes down, then takes the detour to the sides, then out. And even if one or both clogs with leaves it still can't get over the sleeve.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)

They have knock-down duct in stock at all the Depot's I've ever visited - but it's 22 or 24-GA galvanized for hot-air use (Gas venting at the worst) and it's far too thin to last very long.

Me, I'd look at getting a full 20' stick of 11-GA or 1/16" (the lightest they make) 5" or 6" OD (whatever your little stove calls for) Structural Tubing and make the main stovepipe riser and tee runner from that. A fish-mouth for the tee pipe, and make a wedge-section elbow to go vertical over the stove - you set the chop saw to 11.25 degrees and slice up a pile of segments.

A couple sticks of thin mild square tube down to the ground to support it, and a stand-off bracket from the wall header.

Get some MIG practice putting it together, than we can't pick on you for making cold welds anymore.

Oh, the cleanout cap for the main riser (below the tee inlet) can be the thin Heat Duct stuff, it shouldn't get that hot.

So all you use the lightweight knock-down duct is to feed into the

11-GA flue, and when it rusts through you replace it fast and easy. If the Shop isn't sealed up tight you can stand a minor CO leak long enough to notice the problem.

If you can afford the propane, though... I'd get or make one of the Radiant Pipe with Reflector heaters that stretches the whole length of the shop.

And they use 3" or 4" B-Vent that's small enough to sneak between two of the roof corrugations, especially if you convert to Oval B-Vent Pipe for the penetration and draft riser.

Oh, and no creosote fires in the flue like you get burning wood - that's important.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)

Rust or simply rotted away?

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

I could..could simply use 6" pipe..but that would be a bit interesting to support

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

Very nicely done!!

Btw..that boring head you built..absolutely MARVELOUS job!!

Bravo!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

Good ideas all. I like the idea of an oval riser between the corregations. Frankly..Id never thought of that. Sigh...and here I was thinking Id recovered from the stoke. Very nicely done!

Cant afford the propane or natural gas to heat the shop. PG&E is still a shitload higher than everybody else in Cali. So Im stuck with burning scrap.

Ive not lit the stove yet this year...Carhart insulated coveralls at night work ok..but its gonna get cold pretty soon and working with ski gloves on simply isnt in the cards

Ill see what I can find for thin wall. The output from the stove is

5"..but can I swage down to 4" if I have a good draft? Getting 4" would be easier than 5-6" around here

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

And if you got it red hot. Got any 4" conduit? :)

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

I told you before - bailing wire and tar paper nails :-)

Reply to
John B.

Or maybe

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for the real stuff.

Reply to
John B.

Home Depot has stovepipe, too.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

No..I dont. But if I can use it..Ill snag some.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

  1. Lie
  2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
  3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
  4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
  5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
  6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
Reply to
Gunner

I'd put it at the ridge where water drains away from the added flashing. Then you need only seal around the flue pipe.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

It would last longer than that galvanized sheet metal. I wonder how well an 'EZ-ELL' would work in that application? Some of the old compression couplings & furnace cement would give airtight joints. I thought you might have some pieces from one of the businesses that have shut down. I used to pick up alll the used conduit & scraps from a local electrical contractor. They used a lot of ridgid in factories. There were times I didn't make it home before someone stopped me & bought what was in my trailer. :-)

I still have a few 10' pieces of unused 3/4" rigid aluminum conduit they gave me. I would have had a lot more, but my dad was trying to be 'helpful', and bent the rest up to recycle it. Over $500 worth of new conduit. :(

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

The cleanout plug on my chimney was partly galvanized and rain washed down acidic residues that ate it away. Now it's entirely stainless. I added a handle to help pull it out if it's frozen in place; lighting a small fire doesn't warm it enough and prevents me from brushing the flue. I can heat the frozen plug with a torch but then the hot rim drips with creosote I don't want on gloves. Freezing rain is a big problem here, if not where Gunner lives.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Wood smoke stings the eyes because it contains vinegar.

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Once I have the fire burning hot the secondary air in the top of my Scandinavian-style stove burns all the distillates and the exhaust is clear and doesn't sting, even if I'm standing beside the top. But I haven't figured out how to stop the smoke when it's starting up and the chimney is too cold to create enough draft.

The acid first ate away the upper inside section at the joints, leaving a ragged lower edge. It thinned the walls unevenly enough that a few areas began to crumple in when I handled the extension pipe every few weeks to clean it. My chimney brush is nylon (home-made) and not abrasive. jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

I just miked a spare section of black stovepipe from Lowe's. AFAICT it's about 24 gauge or 0.5mm, hard to tell since it's curved and stiff and burred on the edge. For me it lasts at least 10 years. I suspect less careful people would leave it in much longer.

I use a 5-blade crimper like this:

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Better:
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Cheaper:
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The tees would be easier to copy than the elbows. The tees are fishmouthed and riveted. I put a tee instead of an elbow where the riser from the stove turns to go through the wall so I can brush out that section.

The regulations here require a metal container with a lid for the ashes. Any glowing coals in the ash generate plenty of carbon monoxide. I use the ash bucket to test the readout on my CO detector.

jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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