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Manual crank for chinese lathe G9722Z

Mostly finished with a hand crank for my Grizzly G9972Z lathe. I used the simple design from George Thomas and Model Engineer Workshop.

Points to consider:

A 10 degree taper is self releasing. No need for a pin in the expander plug.

No need for a dog point screw. I've had no problems getting the expander plug to release.

Stainless steel cuts well with CCMT inserts, but leaves a long, stringy swarf. Think of it as miniature general purpose barbed tape obstacle. I have the cuts to prove it (yes, my blood is red). Do not try to pull it off a leadscrew, use metal snips to cut it off.

SS has an issue with work hardening. Nothing like snapping small mills and drills when you hit an area.

Bullet point DeWalt drill worked well in SS.

Reply to
Louis Ohland
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Thanks for the tips. Painfully learnt!

Reply to
Jordan

Louis Ohland wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Thu, 20 Jan 2011 12:15:45 -0600:

I find that a great tool for pulling chips is a fish hook remover. The kind that has a pistol grip.

google "Pistol grip hook remover" for pics.

Reply to
dan

I wish this stuff would have been chips...

Finished up the 1/2 inch shaft, 1018 threads look like trash, but they cleaned up with a die.

Figured out the gears for the lathe. 16 tpi is right on.

Reply to
Louis Ohland

Does the lathe spindle crank you fabricated operate like the example shown here?

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Different alloys of stainless steel exhibit various levels of work hardening. One descriptive term to look for is "free machining".

I've had very few problems making parts from 316 f-m SS, which included turning drilling, tapping and milling.. all manually fed operations. Using sharp HSS and a good quality cutting lubricant, even tapping #6-32 threads was fairly simple, without tap breakage.

Reply to
Wild_Bill

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