I recently scored a decent SB heavy 10, complete but no tooling. I'm probably going to spring for a reasonable set of used stuff, maybe a KRF omnipost as well. On a couple occasions I've read of new chucks being trued on the lathe on which they'll be used, I was wondering at what skill levels or for which applications the need for chucks set up like that starts to become apparent.
Also, if anyone has hints/tricks that might be of help while I'm cleaning off the crud and tightening it up, I'd really appreciate it.
I have proven to myself time & time again that I must walk before I can crawl. My journey started with an 8" craftsman "table saw" to the 3hp Powermatic 66. With several models between those two.
Ultimately it's likely you'll spend more on tooling than on the machinery. But getting there is what's fun.
I nearly purchased an omnipost (I am susceptible to marketing, particularly if it contains the words "professional" or "industrial"). However, I purchased the import AXA toolpost set, the Aloris clone. My steps this time were - Home made AL block tool post for my Taig Lathe, a 4-tool turret tool post for the Dalton 6 and eventually the AXA set. I still have the AXA set, I've purchased more tool holders - when they're on sale they're fairly inexpensive, and I've made my own. They go on sale fairly frequently. And they are the subject of much bandwidth here, the piston -vs- wedge issues come up regularly.
Anyway, my personality fits the quick change tool post. Being able to switch at will between facing, chamfer, turning, parting, and boring - all of these tools ready to cut, allow me to produce parts significantly faster. And that provides a sense of satisfaction to me.
If your chuck is mounted on a back plate, it is standard practice to true the back plate on the lathe it will be used. It was one of my first operations for my South Bend 10K, so skill level is moderate, patience is a virtue.
One of the best things you can do is to lurk here. The signal to noise ratio is usually fairly good, and there is always a good mix of subjects.
I'm graduating from an Atlas 6", and learned something about how much better a heavier lathe is while working on my dad's SB 9. I got a good price for my SB, intendending to make up the balance with the tooling.
I bought my dad the KRF Omnipost for christmas and its a Vast improvement over the lantern holder. I'm sure there are tradeoffs with the Omnipost, but I'm sure not going to stick only with the lantern when the Omnipost is reasonably priced for a complete kit.
I either got a great deal or what I paid for, depending on the ways and the feeds. Its a gamble, we'll see how it turns out on Saturday. From the photos it still looks good. Theres a road-trip to Plaza Machinery coming up in a month or two, maybe I'll find some fun stuff up there. btw; how heavy is a 10L?
Even if the ways are badly worn those machines can still be a workhorse. They're heavy enough that if you need to move them very far at your end you should consider dismantling into pieces.
At the dealer you can probably get them to load with a fork truck. I moved mine in on a trailer, it had been spiked to some 4X4s and placed on the trailer with a fork truck. At my end we simply upended the trailer and slid it off. I dismanted at this point to take it down the cellar stairs.
Those machines came in three flavors, the older ones with the cast iron base, and legs on the tailstock end. Then they had the semi-circular pipe leg ones, and then the most recent sheet metal cabinet ones.
If this is a cast iron base one, you the motor base is very, very heavy. Don't try to move these by yourself without taking them apart, and even then don't try to move the base by itself, alone.
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