OT; greasing a V belt?

Apr 21, 2006 9 Replies

I've got a V belt that doesn't slip, how do I make it slip?



The gory details; this is the belt on my Dixon ZTR lawnmower that powers the hydrostatic drives on the powered wheels. The 'brake' takes tension from the belt so it will slip and not drive the pumps, effectively locking the wheels. The old belt worked great, it was old & glazed, until it fell apart. The new belt doesn't slip. The movable idler (brake lever) takes the tension out of the return side of the belt but there is still enough tension retained in the power side to cause trouble (both braking and starting). If I reach my hand in to the maze of belts and push slack into the power side of the belt then it will slip.



The belt is the correct size; I even thought about putting in a longer belt but this belt is in the center of a maze of belts and everything else has to be taken apart to change this one belt. All I really need to do is make the belt slip enough that it gets glazed enough to work right. I'd put grease on it (horrors) except I'm not sure how to get it off later or if it would harm the rubber. There are lots of sprays availiable to stop belt slipping but what is used to make the belt slip more?



Any ideas appreciated


I agree with talc.

You can get silicone sprays for assembling plastic plumbing and gutters and the like: this should not harm the rubber belt. Might be too effective though. Oils will absorb into the rubber and cause it to swell and soften. You can also lubricate rubber safely with soapy water or a mild detergent (shampoo?)

IIRC there are belts that are made specifically for clutching applications. Instead of having rubber edges on the 'V' part they have a surface that looks more like rubber-impregnated cloth. I had all sorts of similar problems with my riding mower until I stopped going to the auto parts store for belts -- when I bought the 'right' belts at the lawnmower place it all started going much better.

< If I reach my hand in to the maze of belts and push slack into the power side of the belt then it will slip. >

I wonder if there should be an extension spring installed to pull out the slack in the system to allow the slip. Find any odd sprinigs laying around your yard? ;)

dennis in nca

You NEVER pull out slack on the driven side, only on the return side.

Back before serpentine automotive belts, an old mechanics trick to finding a squeaking belt was to rub a grease pencil on each belt in turn until the noise stopped. You might try that until it glazes some.

--Andy Asberry recommends NewsGuy--

Take a good look at the belt guides that surround the pulleys. Most of the time there should be a couple of guides near the smaller pulley that will "trap" the belt and keep it close to the pulley when tension is released. If the guides are missing or adjusted poorly the belt will still drag on the pulley, causing the machine to drive yet. You may even need to add a belt guide to solve the problem. The guides should hold the belt in nearly the same position that it is in when tight. the new belt is probably stiffer than the old one contributing to the problem. Your comment of pushing on the power side of the belt makes me believe it is a guide problem even more! Too bad you are not close by. Over the years I have cured allot of belt tensioner problems like this! Greg

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