Painting over old paint

Feb 03, 2007 17 Replies

I have an old electrical box by Square D.



I want to use it for my trailer, to house all electricals and to also have a small tools compartment. It has a lock and is relatively watertight.



It had some rust (not much), and some paint peeling.



I use a angle grinder witha 3" brush to scrape off whatever could come off. The paint turned out to have two layers. One (outer) easily removable and the other, very tough and sticky. I removed most of the former, and the old primer mostly stayed.



So. My question is how to paint this box. Should I simply apply some "agricultural paint" to this box and hope that it would stick?



Would McMaster paint 7725T2, of which I have half a quart remaining, be able to stick to inner primer?



This box will be outside 100% of time.



thanks



i

I suspect the iner coating you found was actually powdercoat. Just rough it up and spray whatever you want on it.

"Ignoramus380" wrote: (clip) One (outer) easily removable and the other, very tough and sticky.(clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ By "sticky," I assume you mean hard and well adhered. The usual meaning would be "tacky and not fully dried." ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ (clip)I removed most of the former, and the old primer mostly stayed. So. My question is how to paint this box. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ It should not be necessary to remove the coat which is firmly bonded. I would be sure all the rust has been removed, then apply a coat of primer, and then a finish coat. I don't know anything about the paint you have. If it's labelled "agricultural paint," my guess is it's intended for things like farm implements or barn doors. It would be a reasonably strong exterior paint that gives you a durable, but less than automotive grade finish. Try a little on something else, and see how hard it dries.

Generally farm equipment paint (if that's what it is) dries very tough. Not extremely hard, which would chip, and not soft, that would take an imprint. Not a real high gloss, but not flat. Likely very good for the application at hand.

On Sat, 03 Feb 2007 15:54:33 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus380 quickly quoth:

Good stuff, huh?

Yeah, but be sure to use a nice cleaner first, preferably applied with a maroon (fine) scotchbrite pad to make sure of giving it a tooth.

Er, I doubt it, but I don't know the product. For galvanizing, I'd go ahead and acid strip the primer so I had a pure, clean metal base to coat.

When they spray your bedliner..have em spray the box too

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her t*ts" John Griffin

How deeply should I clean the rust/paint etc before applying bedliner? Is it essential to clean to bare metal?

i

On Sun, 04 Feb 2007 19:11:52 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus10353 quickly quoth:

You don't want spray bedliner in your trailer if you expect to slide heavy things on or off it, Ig. Undercoat underneath, yes. On top, NO!

-- Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in getting up every time we do. -- Confucious

Knock off the loose rust.

Are they going to sandblast your brand new pickup bed to bare metal before spraying?

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

sssh...I want to see the before and after pictures of him bringing home a nice big genset or BP with a brand new bedliner......

Gunner, who once used ArmorAll on a motorcycle seat..and lived to regret it.

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

On Mon, 05 Feb 2007 08:56:39 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth:

1 winch, 1 large piece of machinery, and 1 attempt to slide it across the sprayed bedliner and we'll see half the bedliner scraped off while the winch has pulled through the front wall of the trailer. Can you say "V-shaped front wall"? I knew you could.

We had a new wash guy at the body shop who decided that it was a good idea to clean up the foot pedals in a freshly repaired vehicle after he washed it. I climbed into it and backed out, only to have my foot slide off the brake pedal when I needed it. Luckily, it was an auto and I slammed it into drive and goosed it for a second. After that, I got much better footing on the pedal and stopped it. Then I got some naphtha from the painter and removed the lovely coating of silicone from the pedal. After he returned from lunch, I found the wash boy and chewed him out ROYALLY. The big boss heard me and followed suit with him. That was a scary s*it 20' drive, Maynard.

Nothing a sheet of 1/2" plywood cannot handle... I am a big fan of spray in bedliners. I had one in my old truck. They are extremely tough. They work very well for moderately heavy, but rough, things.

i

I think I had the same character working with me in a shop about ten years ago or so. He was assigned to cleaning/repairing the fleet. The armor-all on the pedals of the UD (cab-over import diesel box truck), which WAS standard transmission was my favorite. I had to clean my drawers. He also thought it would be good to repair the torn vinyl on a seat with duct tape. In the summer. In a dark colored vehicle...

Spray bedliner, then buy a sheet of sheathing grade plywood. Put the ply down when hauling heavy machinery.

Agreed 100%. Bedliner is perfect for 98% of hauling tasks.

i

On Mon, 05 Feb 2007 14:12:29 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus3585 quickly quoth:

And 75% of the time you get somewhere without it and find out you needed it, requiring the purchase of yet another sheet every time. Our buddy Murphy plans things like that, dontcha know?

I disagree, and bought a drop in liner which is slick. (zat ees a double entendre!) I MUCH prefer it. I recently added one of the LoadHandlers, too, and it works very nicely with the poly liner. I dropped 1200 lbs of 3/4- gravel off the bed in under a minute without working up a sweat. Cool, huh? It really pissed me off that BiMart had them on sale for $40 two days after I bought mine for $70 on sale at Schucks Auto Parts. It has already paid for itself in sweat equity.

formatting link
I used my HF 6" mechanic's swivel vise to adjust the 1/2" steel bar handle angle so it cleared my bumper. That old thing has served me well for 30 years. It was worth the $22 or so I paid for it.

Right now I have a plywood sheet in my truck all the time.

i

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required