Don, very interesting as usual. I have a question. If you made a
bracket suitable for an air hammer to "pull" your puller, do you think
that the air hammer would finally free inner rectangular tube from
A jackhammer might, but not an air hammer I have at hand. If several
hard blows with a 2 lb hammer wouldn't move it at all then the
impulse from a small airhammer certainly wouldn't have either.
Ratatatat can accelerate rust busting only if minimum shear force to
bust rust is reached.
Further, air hammers push rather than pull. Making a bracket suitable
for push rather than pull would have been considerably more of a
project. It didn't take me an hour to make my pull grabber.
I've used that approach to jerk loose stuck trailer hitch receiver
tubes: set up slack chain from ball to tree, start driving toward
Fargo, very soon there will be a loud noise accompanied by either a
very sudden stop or success. My experience has always been success.
But my truck doesn't run sideways.
Don Foreman wrote in
Good job Don,
The only thing I would suggest is a coil spring between the pins, this
would help prevent them from thinking about popping out of the holes, and
make insertion simplier.
Nice work. One thing to consider though. The fit of the inner tube may
be T-I-G-H-T when you coat it with a primer and a two part paint. We had
that problem with some boat trailer hitches in the old shop. Ended up
sandblasting them and using the E-Coat tank after giving them a coat of
I used a 2-part zinc-chromate epoxy primer. The caliper sez there's
at least .030" minimum clearance all round, but we'll see how she
goes tomorrow when the paint has cured for 24 hours or so.
If it's a problem, I'll blast 'em clean and zinc plate 'em.
What is an E-coat tank?
Ecnerwal, what do you think about using LPS-3 or some similar rust
preventative for this application. After reading this story, I applied
LPS-3 to my ball/lunette coupler on the areas that go insidethe hitch
Electrostatic coating tank.
We had three of them. The way they work is the main tank is connected to
the positive side of a high voltage power supply. The part is grounded
and hung so it can be dipped into the tank. The paint itself is a VERY
thin mix (almost at the viscosity of water). When the part is dipped in
the charges insure that the paint coats ALL the surfaces at once. Then
the part drips off the excess and gets baked. We used it on Garden Way
parts and some GM stuff.
Beats doing nothing. Rust is the problem, it's just that if parts stay
together a long time (say, long enough for grease to dry up) the anti-
seize stills leaves something to help get it it apart again. LPS3, being
waxy, should stay put pretty well, but I'd personally reach for one of
the several containers of anti-seize I own, because I simply hate
fighting with parts that are stuck, and I really hate ever doing that
more than once on the same part.
That sounds like it would work to paint the inside of tubing, something I've
long wondered about. I'm getting ready (steel gets here tomorrow) to make a
fair sized gantry from square steel tube, and as it will spend a lot of its
life outside I wonder about how to prevent rust on the inside of the tubing.
I know about hot-dip galvanizing, but that isn't perfect either (high cost,
large lumps, unpredictable thickness, difficulty in masking) so if this
would work I'd like to learn more about it.
Because I've never owned a pickup or a camper I gotta ask this:
What holds those pieces in place (when they're not rusted in.) and keeps
them from falling out onto the road when the camper isn't tied to them?
Are they bent together ? - subtle little from a heavy load and a bounce ?
That might be the issue.
Have you heated the outside receiver ?
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.