Separating rusted-together telescoped square tubes

I liked it myself - I have a portapower - but it has power pushing not pulling.

I don't understand the forces in this one if it pushed - has to be pull...


Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot"s Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.

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Tom Wait wrote:

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Martin H. Eastburn
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dipped in

something I've

(high cost,

Spray the inside of the tubing with Waxoyl as used on (and in) the chassis of classic cars. You drag a tube through with a spray head on it and make sure that the drum of Waxoyl is warm when you do it. It sets to a rust inhibiting soft wax.


Reply to
Andrew Mawson

It is basically the same method that the automakers use to prime the auto chassis now. It works great and covers all the surfaces with an even coat even in boxed areas.

Reply to
Steve W.

Yes it works real well for internal coating and will penetrate into tight areas as well. For a DIY system you could adapt the power unit from a powder coat unit and use a water borne paint system. The stuff we used was all flammable solvent based BUT we also flooded the surface of the tank with Argon to prevent any ignition possibilities from the charge. Just know together a water tight tank large enough to hang the parts in, then connect the ground side of the supply to the part and submerge a few electrodes into the bath around the part to charge the solution. Dip the part with one end lower so that the air won't get trapped.

It is also possible to use an electrostatic gun for the outside and up the flow rate along with rotating the tube to coat the interior. That has the advantage of allowing you to use less paint.

Reply to
Steve W.

I used a puller attachment.

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Could have used a pusher, though. Place push ram in with the orange ram extension from tree to outer tube, secure inner tube to tree with taut chain. The truck will rock far enough on its suspension to get a few inches of progress, and that's usually enough to get things started.

Reply to
Don Foreman

Nope. Just rust. Too many years in place with no periodic shots of LPS1.

Didn't have to. It's out, sanded, painted, ready to go back in. I scraped the inside of the outer tube pretty good with a length of flat stock with a sharp edge on it. Got about half a cup of rust out of there when I flushed it with shop air.

Then I had to pull the tiedowns out of the stake pockets -- those rubber block things that compress with a bolt. Problem is, after a few years of being compressed in there they don't decompress when bolt tension is released.

Nothing for it but brute force. They're out. Not pretty! The stake pockets looked like the south end of a chicken that had just laid a brick. I hammered them back flat, will fix the paint today.

I like my '97 Chevy truck OK, but they sure did a lousy job of providing means for securing loads.

Reply to
Don Foreman

After much painful testing, I can assure you that that E-cote does NOT 'throw' into confined spaces or down the center of a tube. It does go further than the same part in an electroplating situation but anything beyond about 2x the diameter is pretty weak.

I don't know the chemistry but from what I can tell it is somewhere between a plating operation, a painting operation, and a chemical dip (eg phosphate or similar) process. The electrodes are run at around 185 volts for the tanks I've seen, only that portion that see some current density will stick (unlike either paint or chemical dip) The result is a good bond to the substrated but it is not very thick nor is it UV resistant.

The preferred process for th> D>

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185 volts? For what coating? Ours ran at 15K volts. We reliably coated the interiors of 4x4" tubing and 2x2" as well. As for UV stability, it all depends on the coating material. The material we used was UV stable. as for powder having a lot of abrasion resistance. It all depends on the type of powders used. Polyester based powders will handle UV and abrasion reasonable well. Epoxy types will chalk up in a couple years. Nylon based work well BUT the substrate has to withstand a higher cure temperature than most.
Reply to
Steve W.


Mine is a 99 but I think it has the same bed style as yours. This is how I installed the tie downs.

Use 3/8" all thread long enough to reach through the bottom of the stake pocket. It takes a long piece on the rear. Assemble everything as before but snug a nut up on the rubber so that it will center the loop. Then double nut or use a self locking nut on the bottom of the stake hole.

None have loosened up since 99. I did break one of the loops by putting too much load on it side ways.

--Andy Asberry--


Reply to
Andy Asberry

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