They are softer than paraffin wax and don't crack as much in cold
weather. I brush melted toilet bowl wax onto the ends of cut logs to
reduce splitting as they dry and shrink.
The MSDS data suggests that Thompson's Water Seal and LPS-3 have had
their active preservatives removed and are now just wax in solvent.
This is second-hand info, but I remember from discussions a decade ago
with some woodworkers...
The old formula was just some volatile solvent and some kind of wax --
not common paraffin, according to reports, but some similar
hydrocarbon wax. The new formula is water-based. It still contains
some volatiles, but it doesn't spread well and it doesn't soak in as
The old formula is still sold in some states. For years, when I wanted
a paint with high VOC, I drove from NJ over to PA and bought it there.
That's how I got my last (current) can of Thompson's Water Seal,
around 5 years ago.
If you're in a state where you can still buy it, the can looks the
same but the original formula says of the VOCs, "600 g/L." The newer
stuff is much less -- something like 1/.3 as much. It's also yellowish
and thicker than the old water-clear formula.
I helped my neighbor paint our dividing fence with the new stuff. It's
OK, but it's a little yucky and tacky.
On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 12:28:46 -0400, Ed Huntress wrote:
Amazon reviews of Thompsons 10104 MultiSurface Water Seal Waterproofer
new formula show 4 positive reviews, and 24 critical (1 star of 5)
reviews ... amazingly negative, overall.
<(Amazon.com product link shortened)> > The old formula is still sold in some states. For years, when I wanted
When you run out, switch to Penofin Blue. It's the cheaper one and
works better than their premium product. Penofin works better than
any other finish I've ever tried, and I've tried a lot in this
business. Penofin builds, so you put it on this year, next year, two
years after that, 3-5 years after that, etc. Truly great stuff. I've
done log homes with it and the owners were ecstatic with its look and
Brush in deck cleaner, rinse, allow to dry for a week, sweep off, and
apply in the morning sun, before it gets too hot. Let it sit and wipe
off any excess. That's a hassle, but it wipes easily and dries hard.
Lay the wipe cloth out flat on the grass to dry completely or it might
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
I've done this before. I used an empty carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. I
soldered a garden sprayer nozzle into the output tube and a Schrader valve
into a hole in the brass neck. Unscrew the whole top, fill to about 2/3 wit
h oil and then reassemble and charge with air to 8 or 10 bar using a compre
ssor. It works well. I might have a picture of it somewhere.
I've got a small throw away ABC powder extinguisher that's creeping to the
low side of green on the pressure guage. Tryin to think of fun re-uses for
it once I finally drain the thing for practice and get a new one.
Besides it probably being illegal in Illinoise and salt/water/dust
would likely quickly erase it from the frame, MOST people use a
rubberized undercoating for frames and underbodies, Ig. Why not
recycle the oil and steamclean + undercoat your trucks, for a
Otherwise, what about using an existing aerator spray tip and
adjusting the air pressure to control the overspray? Olive oil can be
sprayed with a hand-pump and regular paint spray can nozzle. Grab a
magnifying glass and look at pressure washer or paint gun tips for
clues into spray containment. It's possible that an HVLP paint
sprayer might work, so you might give that a try, too.
I dislike the oil spray concept from an eco standpoint, and I'm
surprised it isn't illegal. Where's the freakin' EPA now? Watch them
fine a person $50k for leaking a quart of oil onto the ground, but
they let 1,000,000 people leak oil onto the street and flow into lakes
and sewer systems? Go figure!
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson
I much prefer a "self healing" protection - like a waxy oil. A mix a
friend of mine uses is a mix of a vegetable oil, beeswax and lanolin.-
The old Waxoyl product worked pretty good. Krown rustproofing is good.
So is RustChek
My 20 year old Ford is virtually rust free - treated with RustChek
As far as the cathodic protection, what you are buying is an insurance
policy and a little box of snake oil.
A friend's 2007 GMC pickup has had aver $5000 worth of bodywork done
under the rust protection warranty. His car, which also has one, has
had over $3000 worth of rust repair done (I think it's a 2005 Chev)
My 2002 Taurus, treated with Waxoyl from new and Krowned twice, has
has no rust repair, and has no rust showing and my 96 Ranger has had
one tiny spot repaired on the left rear fender - a spot the size of a
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