Really amazingly negative reviews! i
Really amazingly negative reviews! i
That stuff does not stick to rust. Oil does stick to rust.
Rust continues under any coating. Rust does not continue under oil.
Undercoatings are hard to repair. Oil film is easy to repair.
I am not a lawyer and I do not provide legal advise.
I just want my trucks not to rust from the bottom.
i
I use something similar, which I bought from Eastwood a few decades ago, to spray bulk engine cleaner. It worked great -- back when I had engines built before they knew how to keep the suckers from leaking oil.
Back when I was flipping sports cars for a fast buck, in the late '60s, a mechanic friend recommended that I apply fresh undercoating when I was selling a car. He said it would hold things in place when the floor pan rusted through.
That would be fun if somebody used it to put out a fire.
Volswagen was famous for that in the early "rabbit" years. Tubber undercoating on the outside of the floor. Rubber sound deadener on the inside of the floor. Rust crystals in between. Add floor mats and you had a 3 layer rubber floor. Looking at them they could look almost perfect, but you could punch them with your fist almost anywhere without bruising your knuckles.
A couple of my cars, including a ratty old Porsche Speedster that I had for less than a month, resembled that remark. d8-)
No "special" qualities?
I figured there was some magic quality because it came from aircraft!
How much lead if any leaks into that oil?
Becaause it costs so much more, you hate to take it to recycling at Walmart.
Ignoramus9970 fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I have one, too. Good on ya'... but you should try it in the siphon mode with low pressure. Might even work better... give you freedom from that pressurized tank.
I know from experience that they'll siphon from tens of feet away.
Lloyd
My mother had one of those. One day, as my dad and I were checking her Rabbit before she took it on a long trip, I stomped hard on the brake pedal, and had it go all the way to the floor. Turned out the brake line to the rear wheels ran under the floor mats, where it was always damp, so it was rusted, of course, and my high pressure test burst it.
-tih
Nice and thick -15W50 Aeroshell - and relatively clean (changed every
35 hours)
Definitely measurable - ashless dispursant oil keeps it in suspension instead of letting it "plate out" as sludge in the crankcase.
Yup - and the fuel line ran inside too. AWFUL little machines. They say they don't build 'em like they used to and a say "THANK GOD!!!!!"
Patching a hole in the floor on one of those critters always turned into at least an all day job, and often ended up in a trip to the wrecking yard when you found out just how far the cancer had spread. After pealing off as much of the rubber from both inside and outside and finding there was nothing left to rivit or screw or weld a patch too - or after attempting to weld in a patch without removing the rubber adequately from one side or the other and turning it into a "smoke bomb" A friend did it "the easy way" and just poured a fiberglass floor tub, using the rubber membrane as a "mold", and screwed the fiberglass to the inner rocker panels.
Is the ashless dispersant oil aviation basically the same as detergent oil for other vehicles? It appears they both suspend junk so it can be filtered out of the system.
Similar
Had a '83 K-car with the door lock/window harness under the mat under the driver's feet. I went in and re-did all the spot welded, fabric wrapped splices and got things more or less working again. By the time I finished with the "public relations rep." he wouldn't even admit to having a driver's license.
Back in the mid '60s my neighbour who worked as a weldor at "Link Belt" broughy home a couple large chain guards (3/16" sheet syeel) and re-built the floor pan of his dad's '59 Buick from the back bumper to the fire wall. He didn't bother to undercoat it because he figured that the roof would rust through before the new floor!
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