Spraying used oil

Tom worked at the plant in Woodstock and he lived in the front half of the house in Oxford Centre - about the only house to survive the tornado. This was pre 1967.

So if the protectant is damaged, it will rust? Who would have ever guessed that?

So, what do you like? Do you prefer cathodic protection? Blue glitter wands? What? ;)

It does stick to rust, quite well. It's just that thick rust flakes fall off.

Go for whatever is your pleasure.

Let us know how well it works.

AFAIC, Thompsons should be sued for saying that ANY of their products work...at all.

I'm surprised that _silicone_ hasn't sued them for slander.

I much prefer a "self healing" protection - like a waxy oil. A mix a friend of mine uses is a mix of a vegetable oil, beeswax and lanolin.- applied warm.

The old Waxoyl product worked pretty good. Krown rustproofing is good. So is RustChek

My 20 year old Ford is virtually rust free - treated with RustChek

As far as the cathodic protection, what you are buying is an insurance policy and a little box of snake oil.

A friend's 2007 GMC pickup has had aver $5000 worth of bodywork done under the rust protection warranty. His car, which also has one, has had over $3000 worth of rust repair done (I think it's a 2005 Chev)

My 2002 Taurus, treated with Waxoyl from new and Krowned twice, has has no rust repair, and has no rust showing and my 96 Ranger has had one tiny spot repaired on the left rear fender - a spot the size of a quarter.

Up here in the salt/rust belt we know what works. Rubberized undercoating is one product that does NOT work. Oil based products like Krown and RustCheck do.

Most of the "oil based" commercial products today are a vegetable based oil today, which tends to wash off more quickly. Raw linseed oil is a product that has been used successfully, "wool oil" - aka Lanolin is also used commercially. (one example is "fluid film")

Oregon uses crushed clay roof tiles and sand instead of salt, at least this far down. My '07 Tundra has no rust or salt corrosion, either.

Pricy little box.

Having grown up in sunny SoCal (+ 1.5 years in Aridzona), I know nothing about rust except what I've seen and read. What do those insurance policies cost?

Since you have to reapply oils and waxes regularly, why wouldn't it be cheaper to find and repair the little nicks in the rubberized undercoating at the same schedule?

If the oil used was BLO, I can see why it worked.

Are the installers cleaning and drying the vehicles properly first? I know it's best to have it done fresh from the factory, while it's still pristine.

Thinking about it, I can't see how the pressure-washer-like spray from the tires doesn't wipe every bit off the undercarriage in minutes flat during rains. I'd think snow was easier on it, but I don't drive in the stuff here.

The bottom 8" of body/bedsides on my Tundra is undercoated (under the paint) and none of it is chipped/rusted/damaged after 8+ years.

See, I thought it had magic properties...lead!

When you run out, switch to Penofin Blue. It's the cheaper one and works better than their premium product. Penofin works better than any other finish I've ever tried, and I've tried a lot in this business. Penofin builds, so you put it on this year, next year, two years after that, 3-5 years after that, etc. Truly great stuff. I've done log homes with it and the owners were ecstatic with its look and performance.

Brush in deck cleaner, rinse, allow to dry for a week, sweep off, and apply in the morning sun, before it gets too hot. Let it sit and wipe off any excess. That's a hassle, but it wipes easily and dries hard. Lay the wipe cloth out flat on the grass to dry completely or it might self-combust.

Larry, please get back into the real world, spraying oil is cheaper than anything!

The crap was installed new at the factory on VWs, and on new cars by the thousands by the likes of Ziebart - with used vehicles steam cleaned and dried - and they ALL rusted.

When the film is damaged and moisture gets in, the rust travels like ringworm under the membrane, eating the steel like cancer.

The important parts are tha parts you don't see and that the blast cannot reach. The oil soaks into any existing rust, and penetrates seams and soaks "dirt traps" with oil instead of them being soaked with salty water that stays there causing rust. The oil on the inner panels of doors ets also stays, preventing rust from starting on the inside unfinished and unsealed areas of the body.

Toyota's "stone gusrd" is pretty tough stuff. A lot of the aftermarket "rocker-guard" used over the last 30 years was terrible stuff. So was a lot of the original equipment stuff applied at the factory on GM, Ford, Chrysler, and other brands.

Basically impossible to find them all, and to repair them you would need to strip the material back several inches all around, clean and retreat. Definitely not a trivial job. Ziebart used to just recoat - with often diasterous results.

Bet that Corvair Gunner's buddy fell through was ziebarted (or a similar rustproofing)

Hydraulic oil lasts about a year. Used hydraulic oil is nice and clear, not like black used motor oil. Hydraulic oil also clings better and has anti-rust additives that are added to resist internal hydraulic corrosion.

Linseed oil eventually polymerizes, making it subjct to the same water-creeps-under problem as rubber.

Fluid Film(tm) goes on kinda gloppy, thus doesn't drip, which is good. But it's thixotropic so the vibrations of normal driving allow it to flow and penetrate the interstices in superficial rust, getting as close to the bare metal a possible. Seems to be keeping my '89 F250 from getting any worse than it was when I got it a decade ago.

I've got a small throw away ABC powder extinguisher that's creeping to the low side of green on the pressure guage. Tryin to think of fun re-uses for it once I finally drain the thing for practice and get a new one.

First, it DOES cost about 3X as much to use stainless. It's not just the material cost. It's the forming and the joining.

Second, cheap and rust-free is NOT why they use plastic. Lightweight is why they use it, and the newer moldable composites are a lot lighter than steel, for a given stiffness and strength. It isn't used in crash-protection applications, except for some carbon-reinforced material that, again, is stronger and lighter than steel.

American cars, for decades, have typically been more rust-resistant than imports. BMW was using more galvanized and zinc-loaded coatings earlier than US makes, but that's a premium brand -- and you paid for it, through the nose.

You're talking about old cars and trucks, which is what you have. New ones are vastly better in terms of rust-resistance.

I also did this with hydraulic oil in the fire extinguisher. I'd say my coa ting lasted about two years in rain and sunlight, but it was on equipment t hat wasn't moving.