30Int and BT30 Tooling

Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but
sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or t'other??
Peter
-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
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On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 20:40:50 +0000 (UTC), Peter A Forbes

Count yourself lucky, Peter - I've got both on the same mill!

Thers seems to be more 30INT around secondhand than BT30, & if you try to use both you'll be constantly messing about with drawbar lengths.
What are you looking for in particular? I've got a few more bits of 30 tooling than I need, after getting a job lot of QC30 for the Bridgeport.
I've also got a nice little high speed angle head for a Beaver.......
Cheers Tim
Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service
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Peter A Forbes wrote:

for some

and 2ES) but

seems that

the drawbar

using one or

Agggh..not another person to compete with .. need some of the stuff myself . only have one collet chuck and four collets so far.. I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid 190 to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind .. still wondering if I should have bid..see below.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout... all the best...mark
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If you look at how much of that stuff you would actually use, it seems to me to be a bit pricey, you can't use them all at once :-))
I did see them but kept out as the prices were rising quite sharply, always a bad sign....
I'm chasing another lot locally, so if I get any spares, I'll give you a shout. I will also be talking to Tim leech about his bits on offer as well :-))
I will have to check on the beer token stocks!
Peter
-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
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seems to me to

always a

you a shout.

:-))
Thankyou Peter. think I nead The QC ones .ones with the single collar on. I dont know really but ..think I would rather have ...because "I think anyway" one with a Morse one taper... one with a Morse two taper and one with a Morse three taper ..rather than using sleaves .....do you think this will be more accurate than sleves or am I being toooo fussy. Also nead at least two more collet chucks......so that I can make full use of quick change and have all the chucks lined up with drills, pilot drills and reamers etc. also one with an Albrect hand tighten chuck. then I nead a full set of collets...not sure but I think most of them take DA180 collets. also the collet chucks have to have the little loose threaded things inside, to secure endmills with threaded shanks. also handy would be a flycutter one. lol.......you can see this list could get very long ....so I'll settle for some of them for now .... Anyone else who has any of the above give me a shout........cheap please.....ebay is getting to be beyond a joke. oh btw ...I live in Prestatyn North Wales..so the nearer the better..... I've just got hold of some "brand new" very-shiny David Brown adjustable reamers with vernier adjustment.......these would make a nice swap. all the best.....mark
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Not a bad deal for someone who wants most or all of it, IMHO. Looks as though a lot of it is QC30, wouldn't mind a QC30 autolock myself!
Cheers Tim
Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service
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I'll be going to have a look at some stuff on the weekend at a dealer's place, I'll post here if there is anything significant that we could maybe do a 'bulk buy' on, rather than individually.
Peter -- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk http://www.prepair.co.uk
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OK that's great Peter...I will be watching this space. all the best........mark
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How do I explain this to SWMBO?
regards Mark Rand RTFM
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You don't, it just gets sneaked indoors when she isn't looking!
That's what the rest of us do....
Peter
-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
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Peter A Forbes wrote:

Hang on a minute, mate. Some of us enjoy a full & frank relationship with our wives! :-) Workshop equipment is designated as labour saving devices and as such needs to be updated regularly, so that outdated equipment doesn't cause overly prolonged absences from our good ladies" company.. Sound plausible? Works for me. :-)
Tom
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If your wife is "Frank", then I won't be bending over forwards to help you! (But should a married couple be Frank and Earnest?)

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A busy day yesterday! Up at 5.00am, drove with the trailer to Bramcote Farm*, dropped the trailer off. Solo to Derby, had a meeting, did some other work (the day job!) Back to Bramcote Farm to collect the trailer, now loaded with 80 yards of 7.25" track, then off to Redditch to see Richard and collect two 4.5HP 24v electric motors, then back down the M5 and M4 home to Wiltshire.
At Bramcote Farm I noticed that Adrian had an interesting coach that set me thinking. It was the style of a railcar. Using that as an idea and whilst carefully observing the traffic on the way back down the motorway, I had the following ideas.
The railway at Lackham will initially move from being a straight up-and-back to one half of a dumbbell. I will then need a turntable to turn the steam engines (and Stumpy). A railcar is very tempting. It could have two driving positions that can be lock out when not in use. Space for say, 7 passengers plus driver and be driven off one of the 24v electric motors.
Adrian was saying that Cromar White now do a controller that can be "ganged" so I could build a second, identical, railcar that could worked in tandem with the first when we got busy.
This raises the following issues/questions!
1. The electric motors have hydraulic pumps attached. How complicated would it be to make it hydraulic drive (I've never played with this, so it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit? What will I need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?)
2. I could use a body mounted motor with a cardan (prop) shaft type drive (Like the Virgin Voyagers). Has that ever been done in this gauge?
3. The motor is too wide for a 7.25" bogie, but I need to gear it down, so a 90 degree change and an gear box is another option.
4. I could use 2 x 12v batteries, even 4 x 12v batteries, but I would like a way of recharging them. How about putting a cheap generator (60 these days for a 850W and a 12v output) in one of the seats (suitable soundproofed) with fans for cooling etc. to charge the batteries when the vehicle is idling. Can you have the batteries, effectively in parallel for charging, but in series for the motors?
So many questions, but at least they are all ME related!
Cheers
Peter
*Bramcote Farm - Home of Adrian Grimmet and the "Engineer's Emporium"
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On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 19:52:07 GMT, Peter Sheppard
Can you have the batteries, effectively in

Changing my hat to battery charger manufacturer:
Charging batteries in series is fine as long as certain requirements are met, and constant current charging is best, thus ensuring that all cells get the current through them, but it does need monitoring. Constant voltage is fine but you will probably need to equalise the cells every so often as they will get out of charge balance with each other.
Charging batteries in parallel is a bit of a no-no, as you cannot guarantee that each battery is going to receive the charge it needs. Also, it is possible for batteries in parallel to 'cycle-down' by interbattery discharging, so steering diodes are 'usually' fitted into series-parallel battery banks.
Peter
-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
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I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse?

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The website is live!!!
Have a look at www.lmandwr.co.uk
Cheers
Peter
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Nice site, but somebody shoot that bloody pheasent!
Regards
Kevin
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 18:29:30 GMT, Peter Sheppard

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Airy R.Bean wrote:

Stumpy does, but it is all nicely contained in an "Eaton" unit. I have a lever that you move forward to go forward and back to go back!
What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters, reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that someone had been down this route before!
Cheers
Peter
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Peter Sheppard wrote:

First we need to throw a few things over the calculator..
What's required is the rated capacity of the pumps: GPM at what pressure and what type of pump are they? Are the motors rated for continuous use or intermittent? What would be the estimated hp (at the drivers) needed for tractive effort? What diameter wheels and top speed required?
Tom
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Tom wrote:

Apologies for the delay, the day job took me away for a couple of days!
Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes at 2800 rpm. They are Dowty with the reference 3013 C TDTB. (I can't find anything with that reference on the web).
(GPM - gallons per minute?)
The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at, 650 RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb of torque.
The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of 9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable.
What would the hydraulic circuit look like? Pump, reservoir?, valves to direct the flow forward/reverse? I assume that all you do is reverse the feed, so there needs to be a return path?
Cheers
Peter
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