I know it relates to the centre line of the blade etc to the job, but would welcome a full interpretation of its meaning.
I don't think my nerves or ears can take much more of these saws and the awful racket they make. Before its asked, bearings etc are all ok. Bob
Bob,I don`t see how it relates to centreline of the blade to the job.Although it could as the pic is not to clear.It looks to me as though it is relating to the pitch of the teeth in relation to the thickness of the cut but that`s not right either as the numbers are going the wrong way.What is the symbol before the 5 as in up to 4 G something 5 and what is the symbol at the top between the teeth? My Mec 75 had a plate rivited on at the side of the slide with arrows that were to be lined up at 90 deg and 45 deg. I know that if you bring the blade too far over the centre with these saws it pulls itself in and breaks the blade.When I bought my first one many years ago the operators broke a lot of blades before I figured that one out.I don`t have a Mec anymore,I have a Trennjaeger which is a cracking saw but when the blade is blunt it makes one hell of a noise. Sorry I can`t be more help.
Bob,you could ask this lot.
Pedrazzoli have now been taken over (about 3 months ago) but the Mecbrown expert Gerry is still with the new crowd - the number in his department is 01527-527058
AWEM
Bob,I don`t see how it relates to centreline of the blade to the job.Although it could as the pic is not to clear.It looks to me as though it is relating to the pitch of the teeth in relation to the thickness of the cut but that`s not right either as the numbers are going the wrong way.What is the symbol before the 5 as in up to 4 G something 5 and what is the symbol at the top between the teeth? My Mec 75 had a plate rivited on at the side of the slide with arrows that were to be lined up at 90 deg and 45 deg. I know that if you bring the blade too far over the centre with these saws it pulls itself in and breaks the blade.When I bought my first one many years ago the operators broke a lot of blades before I figured that one out.I don`t have a Mec anymore,I have a Trennjaeger which is a cracking saw but when the blade is blunt it makes one hell of a noise. Sorry I can`t be more help.
Hi Mark This picture is bad, sorry, took with a mobile phone, and up to close. The symbol is a "T". It looks to me that they are saying "T" is the pitch of the tooth ? The second blurred line says: g 4 divided by 10 space t =8. Makes me think the pitch is 8mm between each tooth? I cant get what the "g" is, unless it is if how far over the centre line. I realise the blade angle is important in relation to the size of material, and can be adjusted, but how on earth these machines ever sold baffles me as they all seem as bad noise wise. New blades, bigger blades, smaller blades, nothing stops them making awful noises. This has been driving me made for ages I hasten to add !!! Sadly cant afford a good column type saw for a while, and the big job that's in will need cutting up on the earsplitter !! I'll take a better picture tomorrow. Bob
I did contact them a while back trying to answer the same question about noise for my other MEC, but an older bigger Super Brown. They seem to say the crown gear is muffed, or, the saws are very old, how about a newer one !!! The Bronze wheel isnt muffed by the way, I took the other one apart, and its like new, no sharp edges on the teeth, even looking wear etc. It must relate to blade chatter or the angle of cut. A piece of 80mm x 6mm cuts as you would expect, put a bit of 35mm x 19mm or similar, and its goodbye eardrums !!! Adjusting the fore and aft makes little difference. One would think if they did this from new not many would sell? Was the takeover by a company called "Accurate cutting" ? I actually use them now to cut up some material, eg 5000 off jobs. Bob Bob
Bob,G is the gauge of the metal.The first line is ">4 T something 5" This means tube with a wall thickness up to 4,but we don`t know if they mean 4mm or 4G. The second line is tube with a wall thickness of 4 to 10. The third line is solid bar. It is the symbol between the T and the 5 we need to know. As a matter of interest what blade diameter and how many teeth are you using to cut what? I`ve always found these saws to cut with a nice crisp sound on solid bar as long as the blade is good. Have you checked the pivot bearings for wear?Again on solid bar the wear at the pivot does not seem to matter much as the blade is pulling the head forward and takes all the play up.
Adjusting the fore and aft makes little difference.
That statement to me means the blade is blunt,as if you put the blade centre forward of the metal centre with a sharp blade it will near enough self feed.If you set it far enough forward it will self feed with dramatic and costly results as I mentioned earlier. Are you pushing/pulling hard enough on the handle?
Better picture Bob.It looks like they mean up to 4mm wall thickness use 5mm pitch blade,4-10mm use 8mm pitch and so on. I personally would not use as coarse a blade as that on tube as it is possible for the teeth to straddle the cut,but I suppose they must assume that at least one tooth will be in the cut on one side or the other. I don`t cut much tube on mine,mainly solids.I can`t remember what pitch of blade I use now but I used to use a segmented blade costing about =A390 ea but gave up as it cost about =A340 for the saw centre to replace segments,badly. I now buy solid blades for about =A336 and just throw them away when they start to howl/won`t cut. IIR I will have a look at the pitch of these tomorrow.
Better picture Bob.It looks like they mean up to 4mm wall thickness use 5mm pitch blade,4-10mm use 8mm pitch and so on. I personally would not use as coarse a blade as that on tube as it is possible for the teeth to straddle the cut,but I suppose they must assume that at least one tooth will be in the cut on one side or the other. I don`t cut much tube on mine,mainly solids.I can`t remember what pitch of blade I use now but I used to use a segmented blade costing about £90 ea but gave up as it cost about £40 for the saw centre to replace segments,badly. I now buy solid blades for about £36 and just throw them away when they start to howl/won`t cut. IIR I will have a look at the pitch of these tomorrow.
Thanks I'm using 275mm 2.5mm wide 32 (I think) I only cut solids, and like you use the £40 ones. I wouldnt fancy a 10mm pitch blade !!! Bob
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.