taig and sherline mills to the UK

Forgot to mention also handy for mounting V3 limit switches inside.

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Reply to
John Stevenson
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No need, anyone getting in on the Beta program has been promised free updates for life as payment for taking part. Seems easy really as I haven't hear or found one bug

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Reply to
John Stevenson

Nice :) Cheers for that. I was going to use crimp type sockets and jus

spiral wrap the stepper cable. But you idea sounds much better :)

-- milg

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Reply to
milgo

I thought id seen that idea somewhere. How do you connect the wire

inside? Just twist them together and use electrical tape? I was goin to get a strip of screw terminals and break those up to use. What yo think? I am going to use glands, just not with a sleeve

-- milg

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Reply to
milgo

Best way to connect them is twist together the ends, solder them, then insulate with heat shrink tubing (alternatively, insulating tape, but heatshrink gives a neater job). There's no particular point in using screw terminals unless you think you will re-wire them at some point (unlikely).

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

I'd always use heatshrink as it does provide some mechanical support too, and unlike insulation tape doesn't turn into a sticky mess over time.

Tell me the diameter of the wires (including the insulation) and I'll have a rummage.

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I generally use the automotive type insulated crimp terminals for that sort of thing, but IMO you do need a decent ratchet crimper for them to work properly

Cheers Tim

Tim Leech Dutton Dry-Dock

Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs

Reply to
timleech

Ok cheers guys, Il go for the shrink tube option I think. Steve thank

for the offer but as im already ordering a load from RS it wont it th buget too hard. Anyone have any tips for cleaning rust? I had to drill out th couplings for the spindle motors and blowing out all the swarf mus have left a bit of moisture there which caused a bit of rusting ove night. I quickly got most of it off the outer surface with wd40 bu there are some heavier patches inside

-- milg

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Reply to
milgo

It depends as to whether you motor is of Brit or foreign origin.

Brit fuses are intended NOT to blow until TWICE the rated current.

Yank fuses are intended to blow at the rated current.

Start low for safety - and experiment for safety, increasing the rating until it doesn't blow - you might try anti-surge fuses.

Reply to
Airy R. Bean

You must be very,very embarrassed at your history of infantile and gratuitously offensive postings if you are that paranoid at seeing any criticism of you.

Reply to
Airy R. Bean

Grow up, Duncam Munro!

If it was your intention to turn this group into a forum for gentlemen to discuss aspects of engineering, then you have failed miserably by your childish outburst below.

Do not forget that your very first c> Peter, I'm using 40tude Dialog and it _is_ very good. I had our resident

Reply to
Airy R. Bean

I think that you seem to be confused - I do not seek to not read certain contributions.

If it was your intention to steer this NG towards a forum for gentlemen to discuss engineering, then I am afraid that you have failed miserably with your rather silly and childish outburst below.

Reply to
Airy R. Bean

John - thanks, that's good to know.

Reply to
Duncan Munro

One of the peculiar psychological aspects to this whole affair is the extent to which two of the main antagonists continue to discuss the person that they falsely claim that they want nothing whatsoever to do with!

What a couple of prize idiots!

Reply to
Airy R. Bean

Airy R. Bean posted the following in uk.rec.models.engineering:

You could, of course, have followed your own advice about what you see as 'childish outbursts'.

In case you don't recognise it, it lies in your phrase "...it is a simple matter for an adult mind to pass over them...".

Perhaps you don't have an "...adult mind..." to start with.

Reply to
Ted

Misquoting corrected...

Reply to
Airy R. Bean

Got round to wiring up my stepper motors today, when I realised that I had ordered cable with 2 white cores and 2 red cores. Any idea how I might work out which is which? I thought I could make a little circuit, connect one end of the wire and then try 1 at a time at the other end until i got a complete circuit ( using a LED or something). If anyone has any better or easier ideas...

Reply to
milgo

If you have a multimeter (if you don't, I suggest you go get one because you may well need it before you're done anyway! You can pick up cheap ones that will do the job for a small number of quid at Maplin, Mchine Mart, RS, etc. etc.), set it to a resistance measurement range, short one red & one white together at one end of the cable, then hunt for the pair at the other end by looking for a zero Ohms measurement across the various possible pairs of red/white.

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

Actually, you can make your life somewhat simpler just by using the red pair to connect one coil of the motor and the white pair to connect the other (I presume you are going for 4-wire (bipolar) connection). If the motor spins in the wrong direction (CW instead of CCW or vice versa), then simply reverse the connections for one pair of wires at one end of the cable.

Regards, Tony

Reply to
Tony Jeffree

I agree with Tony, get a multimeter, even the simple ones are plenty good enough. In the mean while simple way is to connect a battery to one red and one white. Go to the other end and with a bulb or LED the red and white that lights up are the two you have. The spare red and white can't be mixed up. Slide some sleeving or a band of heat shrink tube on one red and one white at both ends so you can't get lost later.

Keep an ongoing wiring diagram with cable colours on it as you go. You'll be suprised what you can't remember a month down the line

-- Regards,

John Stevenson Nottingham, England.

Reply to
John Stevenson

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