Starship Enterprise glueing problem

What type of glue are you using - I strictly use Ambroid Pro-Weld or Tenax 7R

Both are "welding" cements - meaning they melt and join the styrene into a single piece - like Testors - but the drying times are incredibly short - 7-10 seconds to basic-set for the Ambroid - 30 second to full strength bond

The Ambroid comes with a brush, use an old fine tip one with the Tenax

Hold the pieces together and brush the cement along the junction - hold for a minute or so - and you're done

Rest the saucer upside down on 4-6 blocks spaced around the rim. Position some more blocks for the engines to rest on, again upside down. You can use Lego bricks, CD cases, paint bottles, or anything else that'll provide a stable support. The tops of the engines aren't supposed to be level with the top of the sauscer's edge, so the blocks supporting the saucer will have to be higher than those supporting the engines. Test-fit the whole thing to make sure the saucer & engines will sit in perfect alignment before you glue it.

The nacelle thing has always baffled me. In the 40 years since the nasty AMT kit came out, you would think some model company would engineer the nacelle pieces to take care of the "one is always crooked" issue.

Craig

styrofoam or it's cousins make quick and effective jigs. if you screw up a chunk, cut another.

You need to reinforce the hull plating by boosting the confinement beam on the deflector dish. This will require full power from the warp engines but, as long as you don't exceed 5000 kilodynes the injector manifolds should handle it.

...sorry, couldn't help myself.

I've always wondered if the writers for Next Gen laughed themselves silly writing the stuff for Geordi to say. I'll take Scotty any day.

Craig

Sometimes to build the AMT kit, you ~need~ the help of a "miracle worker".... That's why I preferred the 1:1000 Polar Lights version.

I'm using a medium viscous cement "Revell Contacta Professional".

It's that "medium viscosity" that gives me pause

A pure polystyrene welding cement should be as thin as water

I'd give either Tenax or Ambroid a try, I don't use anything else on my styrene

Being based in Ireland its either Revell or Humbrol.

I'm sure there are places in Eire that also carry it, just check around

Other than that, the best I can offer is build a custom stand out of spare balsa/foam to support the primary hull while the dorsal-interconnect glue joint sets and dries

Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly.

pmaguire wrote: : Thanks, building a Lego Dry Dock for the glue to dry worked perfectly. : Interesting solution. I'll have to remember that when (if) Polar Lights ever gets around to producing the 1/350 Enterprise they should have in the first place.

Bruce

I have a lot of Lego I use for building various jigs for when I assemble kits or do some scratchbuilding. I never just play with the Lego. Never. Honestly.

Regards,

Moramarth

that deathstar on your bench self assembled?

snipped-for-privacy@some.domain wrote: : : that deathstar on your bench self assembled? : I bet it was the underpants gnomes!

Bruce

think they go that far?

snipped-for-privacy@some.domain wrote: : : think they go that far? : Classic misdirection ploy!

Bruce

now, just a simple observation.