- posted
17 years ago
You can print with a laser on almost any decal film (e.g. coloured or
metallic) if you spray before *and* after with artists' acrylic.
Anyone tried printing onto Plasticard?
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- posted
17 years ago
Don't try this with a laser printer. We had some one wreck the 'fuser' on
our office colour printer by putting the wrong sort of transparency film
it it and the plastic melted in the fuser stage.
The clear sheets meant for the printer can take much more heat.
Inkjet printers don't use heat to fuse the ink. The warning only applies to Laser printers.
Inkjet printers don't use heat to fuse the ink. The warning only applies to Laser printers.
- posted
17 years ago
Or you could just buy A4 labels and print onto them. Bit like the old
Farish buildings. Even in N these look a lot better when you add
relief detail though.
Regards
Regards
- posted
17 years ago
Just wondering how well these paper models (as a whole) will hold up
over time.
I can think of several uses (such as store interiors for my model
buildings), but if the paper will curl, crack or fade then that could
be a problem (although gluing plastic bracing might help the curling).
Sorry, I guess I am stuck in the decades old mindset of paper wearing
out quickly, and plastic lasting, although that seems to no longer be
true.
- posted
17 years ago
Pendon Is doing well so far
- posted
17 years ago
I was thinking the same thing but concluded that several layers of lightly
sprayed lacquer would help along with stout bracing (though not plastic
necessarily)
- posted
17 years ago
I have seen paper models over 100 years old which look fine.
However conditions have a lot to do with longevity. If you live in a
high humidity area and your layout is not in a humidity controlled
area, you should brace walls as even wood will buckle in the moist
conditions. Modern card stock is much tougher than the old papers use
in the past and those used in the "punch out" books but if you buy
"archival" level paper stock the paper will last centuries. the next
problem is ink. All inks will fade in direct sunlight. since few of us
have layouts hit by such light that is not a problem for us (though
fluorescent lights do cause any pigmentation to fade be it ink or
paint or molded in colour) So the inks should last as long as any
other paint. Basica;lly if you avoid high humidity and bright light
paper will last as well as any other material you can model with.
cat
cat
- posted
17 years ago
Several paper modelers swear by "Future" floor polish for this
purpose.
cat
cat
- posted
17 years ago
I use balsa strips for bracing my cardboard (e.g. Metcalfe) buildings.
Available from good model shops.
- posted
17 years ago
I no longer use Balsa as it is a rain forest hardwood, milled
non-sustainably I am told..... but I understand the principles.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
- posted
17 years ago
Any suggestions as to the type of glue to use when using paper and expecting
a few years life from paper models.
My experience is the 'contact' type adhesives 'leech' thru to the surface,
and shrink and distort paper after a few months, and water based ones either
fail to stick at all to 'archival' type papers ( which seem to have a
plasticky finish) or distort imediately..
- posted
17 years ago
.
Personally I use "carpenter's" or "cabinetmaker's" glues. They
are a yellow toned (but dry clear) glue that is like a thicker "white"
glue (like Elmer's). I use it sparingly as it can get messy but it
holds tenaciously and will last for many years.
A lot like the "white" glues but I find they have too much
water in them and can cause problems when attaching fine parts.
Another good glue, especially when you want things to bond
fast, is "Alien's Tacky Glue" which is found in "crafts" shops.
cat
cat
- posted
17 years ago
Now there's an idea for flat sided rolling stock.
Print directly onto overhead projector film and stiffen the back of each car side with either plastic or even brass rod. This would give flush windows instantly.
Might give it a try.
Print directly onto overhead projector film and stiffen the back of each car side with either plastic or even brass rod. This would give flush windows instantly.
Might give it a try.
- posted
17 years ago
I was blissfully ignorant of that. What is the alternative, e.g. for model
plane builders?
- posted
17 years ago
You might have problems getting the ink dense enough not to show the
backing material.
- posted
17 years ago
True. Wouldn't hurt to try.
Not planning on using my own printer but will print off the design at
Officworks and then get them to transfer to OHP.
- posted
17 years ago
Hi martin, I guess I don't know for planes as weight is a critical factor.
Corflute and foam board come to mind immediately. Don't know what else
though.
- posted
17 years ago
The message
from MartinS contains these words:
The following website seems to imply that balsa is a weed, far from being non-sustainable.
The following website seems to imply that balsa is a weed, far from being non-sustainable.
formatting link
- posted
17 years ago
Colin - if you read that and end up thinking it is an insignificant
participant in a rain forest ecosystem, then I have nothing I can add
- posted
17 years ago
Oh, goody, another off-topic ramble...
I thought that the underlying problem was that millions and millions of Brazilian peasantry were producing 16x millions and millions of offspring, and desiring to feed said offspring were burning up millions and millions of acres of rain forest every year. Whereas, all the time, the real problem was the bit of balsa wood in my attic...
I remember all the crying about the mahogany used in expensive furniture in Britain. In fact, my own shop windows were daubed by the eco-warriors. Great days. We imported less mahogany for our joinery and laid off dozens of carpenters and joiners. Result? Well, the Indonesians still needed to recover the same annual yield from their mahogany, so ended up selling it at 10% of the UK price to Japanese builders, who used it for concrete-laying shuttering on building sites. Of course, to recover the same yield, they had to strip the forests at ten times the previous annual rate. So that was good.
Cheers, Steve W
I thought that the underlying problem was that millions and millions of Brazilian peasantry were producing 16x millions and millions of offspring, and desiring to feed said offspring were burning up millions and millions of acres of rain forest every year. Whereas, all the time, the real problem was the bit of balsa wood in my attic...
I remember all the crying about the mahogany used in expensive furniture in Britain. In fact, my own shop windows were daubed by the eco-warriors. Great days. We imported less mahogany for our joinery and laid off dozens of carpenters and joiners. Result? Well, the Indonesians still needed to recover the same annual yield from their mahogany, so ended up selling it at 10% of the UK price to Japanese builders, who used it for concrete-laying shuttering on building sites. Of course, to recover the same yield, they had to strip the forests at ten times the previous annual rate. So that was good.
Cheers, Steve W