Hi all,
Can anyone provide advice and examples of techniques for adjusting the back-to-back spacings of OO gauge British RTR locomotives? Examples would best include Bachmann steam and diesel locos, Heljan diesels and Hornby steam locos. I need to get the back-to-back to 14.7mm (as against the usual
14.5).Carriages and wagons are fairly easy, but locos aren't. Are there any devices on the market that can get the back-to-back evenly to 14.7 mm on locos?
Cheers,
Ian J.
Why do you need a 14.7mm back to back?
Because I found that with the C&L points I have built, a 14.5mm btb is a little tight on the wing rails, whereas 14.7 is just about right.
Ian J.
Hi Ian.
Hornby wheels can generally be 'slid' along the axel and you will have a problem with the Bachmanns.
They seem to be made up of a wheel with built in stub axel. Each wheel is then cemented into a central axle/gearwheel. To alter the b to b means destroying the glued joint, packing out and re-gluing.
I never even attempted it.
All I can suggest is to move the check rails in a bit. I have taken another route and our Club's points on our new 00 layout are 16.2mm gauge. This gives 1mm flangeways and still allows Bachmann steamers to get through.
Best of luck
I agree with David except its better to use a track gauge of 16.25mm to
16.3mm at the frog. It's probably easier to change the track then locomotive wheels. Increasing the steam locomotive wheels gauge can result in not enough clearance with outside valve gear and alignment problems with outside cylinders.
Do you run your Peco track through a band saw with a 0.25mm wide blade and then glue the sleepers back together? ;-)
No need to. As detailed above, 16.25mm to16.3mm is for the frog of scratch built track using finescale 1mm flangeways. Peco's coarse scale track is already suited to RTR wheels.
Always M8 ;-))
It's all they're good for.
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