DCC bachmann 57

Haven't had my hands on a Bachy 57 to sort out the lights yet.....

However - interesting to see your comment about capacitors.....

I fitted a Silver decoder to a Bachy 66 and it ran fine *with* the capacitors. I did the light mods and removed the caps at the same time. When I took them off, it was a real dog! Re-fitted the caps and it's now fine. I guess I could have changed the motor type in CV50 , but I couldn't find a list of the motor types in the Silver manual, so on went the caps!!

[OT - Just had a call from my mate and he's dropping off a couple of SWD sound chips........................]

Cheers, Mick

For what?

Typical Botchmann for not following any conventional colour codes.....

I've opened up a Freightliner 57 and found the following: Yellow - left headcode marker light. (when viewed from outside cab) Orange - right headcode marker light.(ditto) Green - taillights. Blue - main headlight. Purple - common.

This wiring is the same for both ends, so it's a couple of pcb track cuts to the green feeds and wiring up of pin 3 on the socket and the spare purple lead. I'll post back as soon as.

If the Virgin and FGW 57's have day/night running, then it looks like they'll have to have a different circuit board, as there's no provision for a day/night switch on the FL loco.

Just a couple of points, Bachy have gone on to a "push-fit" for the main pickup and motor lead connections to the pcb, instead of soldered connections. Pretty much a backward step IMO. One pickup wire already snapped when the body was removed, also one of the leads to the headlights was also broken. Further examination reveals less than adequate soldering on the leads from the pcb to the LED's, which will be suitably re-soldered. The resistors for the LED's are also a "bit spread out". On one of the light feeds, I think I've tracked down one resistor on the pcb and then a further one in series on the smaller pcb that mounts the LED's onto the cab end.

Back out to the shed (oops - workshop/studio). {Listening to a SWD sound fitted 66 idling away.............KEWL!)

Cheers, Mick p.s. Might get my hands on a VT 57 before long.

Took me about 5 mins...........

No pcb track cutting involved. First of all the 57 doesn't follow typical UK practice of forwards = No.1 cab leading (this of course presumes that they didn't swap no1/no2 ends when they were rebuilt to 57's) I altered CV29 bit 1 to 1 to reverse the loco, so that no.1 cab (cooler group end) is now leading in "forwards" mode on the controller.

Remove the pcb by taking out the two screws holding it to the chassis block. It may prove easier to also disconnect the pickup and motor leads by sliding off the black plastic caps on their connections to the pcb. Locate pin 3 on the underside of the pcb and solder a short length of wire to it (I use green as that's the standard DCC colour for pin 3). Go back to the upper side of the pcb and unsolder the green wire at terminal C on the no 1 end. Re-solder this no 1 end green wire to your new pin 3 wire. Unsolder the green wire at terminal C at the no2 end and connect this to the purple lead from the decoder. Re-assemble and test. F1 is no 1 end lights, F2 is no 2 end lights. F0 head/marker lights on/off with directional control as normal.

Took longer to type than do!!

HTH, Mick

I'll try this later, thanks very much though.

When toy working out the Thunderbird for me!!!

Pieman

In message , Mick Bryan writes

Surely the easiest way to do this is to reverse the body on the chassis? Or am I missing something?

"Jane Sullivan" wrote

You'd also probably have to turn the fuel tanks through 180º too Jane.

John.

The pcb is wired with soldered connections to the body. The pcb only fits one way round on the chassis. So without a decent amount of work, the body cannot be reversed - and as JT says, the fuel tanks will be wrong way round. Easiest way is to alter CV29.

Cheers, Mick

Cheers, Mick

I don'yt know about this specific loco but most are not symnetrical and the body will not fit correctly if you turn it end for end. Changing CV29 however is the standard way to do it, takes 10 seconds, does not require the body to be taken off or anything else disturbed, what could be easier? Keith

In message , Keith writes

You need to take the body off to install the decoder, don't you? I'd have thought you'd sort this out before replacing the body.

However, I understand from the other postings that I _was_ missing something, so I accept the answer is to fiddle with CV29.

"Mick Bryan" wrote The pcb only fits one way round on the chassis. So without a decent amount of work, the body cannot be reversed - Cheers, Mick

Yeah, but now my Crew in the cab is at the wrong end ;-(

Is this for New Bryford, Mick ?

Andy

The FL 57 is for the club's "Blackmill" - appearing at Stafford in Feb. Pics on club website soon!

"New Bryford" is no longer in my possession - now in a permanent setting somewhere near Leeds.

But I have other plans........................

:-) Mick

"Mick Bryan" wrote

The FL 57 is for the club's "Blackmill" - appearing at Stafford in Feb. Pics on club website soon!

"New Bryford" is no longer in my possession - now in a permanent setting somewhere near Leeds.

But I have other plans........................

:-) Mick

Mick, Any plans for 22nd Oct next year ? We are holding an ex at the CVR - I'm looking, are you free ? (I don't seem to have your home address at present to contact you)

Andy Sollis CVMRD

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The message from "Mick Bryan" contains these words:

Tontine St. in Gauge 1 - live steam, DCC controlled?

No? Yer not the man I thought you were...

Here's the mods for a Bachy 57/3

Same as the 57/0 with a minor difference (see previous posts on this thread for the 57/0 mods). Unsolder the BLUE wires (terminal D) from the pcb at both ends. Connect function output 3 (green wire, soldered to the underside of the pcb) to the the no.1 end blue wire. Connect the purple wire from the decoder to the no.2 end blue wire. Job done.

HTH, Mick