Hornby loco running problems.

The instant cutout ought to mitigate the effect of the higher current during a short (unless perhaps you are using a 10A booster with code 55 rail).

Mark Thornton

Reply to
Mark Thornton
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That's why it's there - the downside is that the loco stops for what would be a very short duration short and then waits for you to press the reset button.

Reply to
Gregory Procter

I agree with you Bill, there is no such thing as a DCC unfriendly point :-), the problem lies in the older locos with wheels too wide bridging out the narrow insulation gaps. Seriously, it brings us to a chicken and egg situation, where some blame the wheels, other blame the points.

The reason you have not experienced any problems, is that you have brand new models which have finer (but still wider than true scale) standards and do not bridge the insulation. As long as you continue to make sure that any future purchases of stock also meet these standards, you should not experience any problems.

The Electrofrog *is the right choice* for the reasons you already know to be true.

Kevin Martin

Reply to
Mooroolbark Miniature Railway

"Mark Thornton"

My understanding is that DCC instant cut-out is to prevent rolling stock from welding itself to the rail as well as protecting the decoders from frying.

-- Cheers Roger T.

Home of the Great Eastern Railway

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Reply to
Roger T.

In message , Mooroolbark Miniature Railway writes

Not on my garden railway it isn't.

In the garden, you work on the KISS principle (keep it simple, stupid). Points that use the switch blades to switch the current work for a couple of weeks, then stop working, because it is totally impossible to keep the contacts clean. Therefore you need to add microswitches to the point operating mechanism to get the current to switch when the point is switched. It is a lot easier not to switch the current at all, and make all rails through the point live at all times (bonding the switch rails to the adjacent stock rails) and having a minimum-length dead frog. When you do need isolating joints, they are controlled by section switches (DC) or automatic reversing thingies (DCC).

I do have some arrangements of microswitches which operate simultaneously with the points, but these are used for feeding current to the heel end of the points when it could come from either track at the toe end. This is at a scissors crossover on a part of the layout where the up and down lines are wired in opposite directions for operational convenience. They were a pain in the arse to install, and are a bit iffy to maintain.

Reply to
John Sullivan

It does not protect the decoders from frying, only good installation will do that, make a mistake and put your loco on the track and the decoder will fry without any effect on the cut out. The cut out is there to protect the control unit first and the layout wiring second and yes this does include the loco wheels and pickups that might be in the short circuit path. Note that the sometimes recommended use of automobile lamps does not give full protection as the current needed to light the lamp can still do significant damage if left on for more than a couple of seconds. Keith

Make friends in the hobby. Visit Garratt photos for the big steam lovers.

Reply to
Keith Norgrove

"John Sullivan" wrote

Not forgetting B&B either (belt & braces - if one feed's enough, then add another or two just to be sure). :-)

John.

Reply to
John Turner

In message , John Turner writes

Too true.

Have you ever tried soldering bonds across rail-joints when the temperature is just above freezing and there is a stiff wind blowing?

Reply to
John Sullivan

It will also prevent point blade contacts burning out as well.

Remember you need good wiring for the booster to pick up that there is a short in the first place.

Chris

Reply to
Chris

Granted the same precautions are required but on DCC the currents involved can do more damage to components than the equivalent DC situation. DC @ 1.5Amps DCC >= 5Amps. That was all that I was saying.

Reply to
Chris

Mix aluminium powder with iron oxide (or 'soil' collected from Iron Knob in South Australia as I did). Pack around the joint and use magnesium ribbon as a fuse ... Low temperature / high wind is NO problem! ;-)

Mark Thornton

Reply to
Mark Thornton

"John Sullivan" wrote

Far too much of a challenge for me - a bit like exploring the wife's underwear! ;-)

John.

Reply to
John Turner

She: Darling, take of my blouse.

He: Yes dear.

She: Now take off my skirt.

He: Yes dear.

She: And my bra.

He: Oh, yes.

She: Now my panties.

She: AND DON'T LET ME CATCH YOU WEARING THEM AGAIN

Reply to
Christopher A. Lee

"Christopher A. Lee" wrote

LOL - I asked for that, didn't I?

John.

Reply to
John Turner

"John Sullivan" wrote

Sounds like your loft or shed needs a bit of insulation...

Reply to
Bruce Fletcher

"TW10" wrote

Yes, I've considered doing just that, but at the end of the day I think I'll just dump the absolutely crap Hornby wheels and fit some scale replacements.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

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