Hi
Can anyone recommended what I could use to remove Humbrol enamel paint from a white metal Loco? The model has been assembled using araldite ( or similar) if this makes a difference.
Thanks
John Firth
Hi
Can anyone recommended what I could use to remove Humbrol enamel paint from a white metal Loco? The model has been assembled using araldite ( or similar) if this makes a difference.
Thanks
John Firth
John Firth said the following on 31/01/2008 11:24:
If you want to disassemble the model at the same time then you can use Nitromors.
Otherwise, I've found Precision Paints stripper to be good.
Thanks. Unfortunately I live in the wilds of Wales and the Precision Paints stuff can't be sent by Royal Mail and there is no local supplier. I'll have to think again
John
Brake fluid has been used by many over here (not by me). Soak the painted part in it for anywhere from an hour or two to a day or so. Scrub off the softened paint with an old toothbrush. Use rubber gloves and eye protection, the stuff is mildly toxic.
HTH
Mr Muscle oven cleaner.
Place locomotive in a plastic bag, and cover locomotive in Mr Muscle. Leave for around 45 min's, remove from bag and wash off under warm running water, any stubborn paint can be removed using a medium or hard toothbrush.
Mr Muscle can also be used for removing paint from repainted plastic locomotives without damaging the plastic.
Wilson
Just cleaned a Millholme 2P that was part painted. was I a bit brutal to use wet and dry, file, sharp blade and finish off with wire wool.
Looks nice even if its a tiny bit smaller !
Cheers, Simon
I have used brake fluid quite succesfully on enamal paints.
"John Firth" wrote
Most paint strippers I've used are extremely good at destroying two-part epoxy adhesives, so although they will remove the paint effectively, they will also dismantle your kit built model. I can't think of anything (except
*perhaps* Modelstrip) which will take the paint off without destroying the adhesive.John.
There are two types of two-part epoxy resins. There is the 10 minute set type and the 24 hour one. I guess most modellers use the quick one. Having worked in the industry the 24 hour one is more durable , the quick one exotherms during setting and becomes more rubbery and therefore more susceptible to solvent attack.
John
Rich said the following on 01/02/2008 14:01:
Ah - so you're the person that has actually done this :-) How do you make sure that every last trace of brake fluid is removed before repainting?
On the wargames group I frequent the preferred substance for paint stripping is castrol Super Clean engine degreaser, Brake fluid comes in several varieties and can be more than mildly toxic.
My Dad's been trying to find some. Is it actually available in the UK?
Halfords have it sometimes.
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