Thinking of going DCC...

I just worked out what I need in the way of decoders :

3 with sockets no lights (Bachmann 20, 25 and 55) 1 with socket and directional lights (Hornby 50) - presumably with reversed socket 8 non-socketed no lights (Mainline 03, Bach 08, Hornby 56, 86, 105 & 90, Lima 87 & Deltic) 3 non-socketed with directional lights (Hornby HST & 56, Bach 158)

Also on the way, Bachmann 40 and a Heljan 47..

I am a complete novice at this, so I have no idea what I am letting myself in for. On the plus side, I can solder fairly well and have a good knowledge of electronics. I imagine that all the pancake motor items (Lima and Hornby) will be relatively easy, as should the socketed items. When it comes to wiring lights though, I have no idea what will be required.

Items which I expect will be less simple will be the 03 & 08 (space), the

158 & HST (separate function decoder for non powered car?) and the 56 (lights).

Assuming I go for Lenz equipment, which models of decoder would people recommend?

Any help / advice / recomendations would be very welcome.


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105??? I meant 110....Although I have a DC Kits 105 with Black Beetle motor bogie which might not be too easy to add DCC to...


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"Adrian" wrote

It depends upon what you want the decoders to do.

The LE1014 series are fine if you don't want feedback and price is a consideration - these are effectively the same decoder that Bachmann will be introducing shortly.

However the most popular, as least judging by the numbers we sell are the LE1025 types.


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John Turner

A good link to find the right DCC-decoder:

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Christian Lindecke

have also used it for Hornby pancake motors (though caution is required as the insulation can be suspect). I have used the same decoders on Bachmann

25's and Peaks and the Heljan Hymek. I have used LE1014s on Bachmann Voyagers and function decoders. I am converting them to LE1035s as the shunting function is useful. Hard wiring is the most challenging but the Mackay Models and Bachmann sites are very helpful. In twenty conversions I have cooked 1 decoder on a hardwire, it pays to do the continuity test and read the decoder address every time. The challenge is worth it and if you want the best out of DCC I recommend the Lenz set 100. regards, Steve
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Insulation between what? the motor connections and the chassis?

I had assumed that the basic process was to cut the wires which feed the motor and take a supply to the decoder and feed back from the decoder to the motor. I presume the problems start where the motor is electrically connected to other parts of the chassis via a rout other than the feed wires???

I'm afraid you lost me there... When you say "hard wiring" do you mean installing a decoder where no socket is available? Continuity test...? of what / how? Read the decoder address - please explain..

Sorry for all the questions, but it's probably better if I learn the terminoligy now...!

That looks like the favourite...


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