Door Bell Buzzer "tap"

MAJOR FLAW.

Would this work? (Improved?)

Ooops! I meant this: ( will this work?)

If you have to run the cable to the remote buzzer why not just parallel the bell ??

He is trying to pick off 1.4v but I think he needs 2 more diodes in that shunt around the bridge because .7 v will be lost in the bridge. I doubt the door bell that exists will miss the 2.1v he is stealing but it might not quite as loud. I do think I would go another way tho. How much current does the 1.4v load need?

E%20TAP.jpg?dl=0

Perhaps a circuit between the capacitor and the 'buzzer' with say a battery (supply) would suffice. The capacitor voltage would only indicate that the (a) button was depressed. High input impedance between the capacitor and the (powered) buzzer or chime or etc.

IME%20TAP.jpg?dl=0

ry (supply) would suffice. The capacitor voltage would only indicate that t he (a) button was depressed. High input impedance between the capacitor an d the (powered) buzzer or chime or etc.

Like this:

te:

CHIME%20TAP.jpg?dl=0

tery (supply) would suffice. The capacitor voltage would only indicate that the (a) button was depressed. High input impedance between the capacitor and the (powered) buzzer or chime or etc.

I have the polarity of the bridge reversed.

Seems like a lot of work when you could just use a LM317 to drop the voltage, one diode to rectify the signal and a capacitor to smooth things out. Hooked up in parallel to the existing chime.

%20CHIME%20TAP.jpg?dl=0

battery (supply) would suffice. The capacitor voltage would only indicate t hat the (a) button was depressed. High input impedance between the capacit or and the (powered) buzzer or chime or etc.

I do not know what you are talkin' about.

The LM317 is s 3 terminal to220 device, an adjustable voltage regulator so that could be used to lower the voltage and instead of the full wave diodes use 1 for a half wave supply, with a decent cap that would be Ok for your purpose.

te:

battery (supply) would suffice. The capacitor voltage would only indicate that the (a) button was depressed. High input impedance between the capaci tor and the (powered) buzzer or chime or etc.

I still don't know what your talking about. I'll just by a button together with a remote chime, ok? And BTW, I don't have a purpose. I live in a pre

-manufactured house and can hear anyone knock on the door anywhere I am in my home.

See if you can find a dolphin instead.

LOL.

Yeah... they almost respond the same. Take you from point A to point B.

One just wiggles in the water a bit differently than the other.

You could make a doorbell that has the sound of "Flipper" when the button is pressed. You'd have to be old enough to remember what sound I refer to though.

And you can then sell it in Japan for a huge profit. If you can handle the fact that they want to eat it. :-)

holy crap, man. it's so rudimentary.