Johannes wrote
ALL I did was point out that Dorothy overstated the power use of hard drives and then desperately attempted to bullshit her way out of predicament with the mindlessly silly crap about 10,000 rpm drives in spades.
If you're actually so stupid that you havent even noticed that that gutless wonder desperately cowering behind 'John Doe' starts shrieking 'troll' whenever anyone rubs his nose in the basics...
Your choice of language gives you away. This is a serious technical ng, not a kindergarten. Anyone can intervene and make correction to posts, but you chose to do it in an offensive way; that makes you a troll.
Johannes wrote
Only mindlessly superficial fools consider the language.
So stupid it hasnt actually noticed that that sort of language is very common outside kindergartens.
No I didnt with the original comment about Dorothy's numbers for hard drives, or even when she asked which numbers I was commenting on.
You wouldnt know what a troll was if it had its fangs in your lard arse, child.
...
And you are Crocodile Dundee on the Internet?
Everyone shrieks "troll" at you.
If you weren't so repetitive, you might be entertaining. But then you would be intelligent enough to at least realize you are a troll.
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>John Doe wrote
No need to ask if you are a terminal f****it, that stands out like dogs balls.
Lying, as always. Plenty dont.
Actually, Rod hasn't made any corrections, unless "that's wrong" is a correction.
You're reading too much into this. I didn't mean that Rod had made any 'positive' corrections, only in his own mind.
Never ever could bullshit its way out of a wet paper bag.
I showed where you can get a decent list of power consumption for hard drives, f****it.
Continue digging your hole
You have these measuring devices, like the Voltcraft Energy check
3000, you put between the wall outlet and the mains plug. That way you can measure the real used power. Take out a HD, and see the difference...take out some memory and see the difference.
Never ever could bullshit its way out of a wet paper bag.
Nice web page.
The above reminds me of hard drive hot spots because the Motor-IC gets referred to a few times.
My question is simpler:
If I have a hard drive which has a protective sheet of metal on one side and the circuit board on the other side then which of these two side should get the most cooling?
Jon D wrote
Varys with the drive design. The only real way to answer that question is to try it both ways and monitor the drive SMART temp.
NO, it does not vary per drive design, or rather, all drive designs are putting the board on the bottom, and a thin cover on the top, thus need more cooling on the bottom circuit board than (if any on) the top cover.
In the majority of drives, the top cover is barely (if at all) even joined to the rest with a reasonably conductive junction, instead they typically have a silicone or some other type of flexible gasket. They may feel warm but this is more a function of heat rising because it wasn't removed more immediately from the hot areas instead of left to heat up surrounding areas.
I'm sure you'll argue Rod, but you're quite wrong in general and offhand I don't recall any hard drive EVER MADE that needed as much, let alone more cooling on the top metal.
In other words, a drive can be completely cooled with airflow over the bottom only. It cannot with airflow only over the top.
Kony:
So, do you think drives would be better off upside-down, so the heat could rise off the bottom?
If so, I just might flip mine.
If you were trying to entirely, passively cool them, yes that should help, or even better is a sideways orientation so there is flow-by of the heated air instead of a shorter circular path.
However, this is considered in isolation, once the drive is mounted in a chassis, that chassis should always have air intake, path on the far side of the drive (from the chassis exhaust point(s), meanting right in front of the drive rack) if not an intake fan before the drive rack. By having this airflow the difference between top or bottom drive side up is minimized, there is no hot air stagnating so they might as well be mounted bottom down. This is in general, certain positions and numbers of drives in particular drive racks might be slightly cooler one way or the other, with the goal being to put more of the airflow across the circuit board side of the drive, AND if possible to keep the intake air flowing within the drive rack.
This last point is where a lot of cheaper chassis fail, they have drive racks sitting back from the front intake holes stamped in metal and nothing to force (or guide, however you want to consider it) the majority of the air to flow along the length of the drives. Quite a wasteful case design to save the manufacturer a few dozen cents? At least hard drives use solid capacitors, for all the brand bashing that goes on, they're built better than most other PC parts towards long term service... except those mechnical parts, pity we still need them.
Kony,
Thanks for the composition.
Luckily my HD stays between 16C and 29C. It's up in a 5 1/4" bay, though, without great air flow.
On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 02:49:06 -0400, kony Gave us:
This is correct. ALL drives are made such that the platters and the "clean room" box they are in operate at a soaked temperature that is fairly warm to human touch. Most also keep their lid disconnected from the main body of the "platter box", thermally speaking. The heat that lid exhibits is 100% due to the air temp in the platter box.
The exposed spindle driver/controller board on the bottom of the drive is what is supposed to be cooled, and that is why it is not "inside" the drive case. It is highly emissive due to the way chip maker package their chips in a matte finish package. It is so they can radiate their heat in a manner other than mere conduction through the lead frame.
On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 17:52:52 +1000, "Rod Speed" Gave us:
You are full of shit.
Some drive makers place such things on their SPINDLE driver sections of their PCBs. Very few drives have multiple PCBs in them now (not including within the plater/head box), and both the spindle drivers as well as the CONTROLLER electronics are integrated together on that one board.
There are plenty of drives, even the 10k RPM versions that have no sinking metals on this board at all. There are some that do.
So it doesn't vary by design so much as by manufacturer. It is not required, and the bottom of the drive is STILL the place where cooling air currents should be directed.
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