Vandalism Problem

Sep 05, 2003 Last reply: 22 years ago 27 Replies

I am having a continuing problem with vandals damaging the padlock I use to tie off a steel cable across the road on some [remote] property I own, and I am looking for some alternatives.



If I use a key type padlock, they fill the keyhole with glue, silicon caulking, toothpicks, other adhesives, combination of all the above, ...you get the picture. Lacquer thinner typically solves this in short order, but what a pain.



If I use a combination type lock, they file all the numbers off so I have a hard time knowing where zero is. Makes opening the lock a little difficult.



Can anyone shed some light on alternative types of padlocks that are more tamper proof? Magnetic maybe? Other ideas?



I *do* need to get into the property for maintenence and fire access, and I would like to continue to use a padlock. I realize and understand the cable is a deterent only, and if someone really wants in, there is little to stop them. Obviously, someone is upset that I cabled the road and anything they can do to annoy me is sufficient payback.



I would appreciate any constructive feedback.


This sounds like one of the few cases where obscurity is your friend. You might be able to sidestep the problem by leaving the current padlock where it is, but anchoring the other end of the cable with a padlock that is not normally visible (in a pipe or a cutout in the post maybe?).

The visible padlock becomes the sacrificial lamb. The vandals will continue to mess with the visible padlock while you open it with the other.

Good luck.

Daniel

How about adding some low voltage to the locks :D Anyone who decides to touch the lock will get a small zap. Sounds like fun too.

How about getting real!

There is no way to keep people off your property with a cable and padlock.

You might slow them down by "posting" your property and busting balls on a couple of trespassers. Some cheap "No Trespassing" signs will keep the honest ones away and maybe give you a legal handle on the assholes.

Clyde

who decides to

probably not legal.. its not in my state..

The thought has crossed my mind...

...wish I had electrical power. ;-)

Also, Daniel - excellent idea. Gives me some food for thought.

Here is a question for you lock smart guys: Is there a brand of combination padlock where it is easy to remove the dial, say after I set the lock, so all that would remain is the lock body and the shaft (or whatever)? When I need access, I reattach the dial and proceed as normal. Sounds simple enough; just don't know if it's practical.

Thanks,

-Joe

The Lighthouse Graphic Design wrote:

Yeah, I know Clyde. The only thing the cable and lock does is keep the honest people out. It is posted, but that doesn't mean much these days. I originally set the cable to try to keep vehicles out because folks were using the property to dump their unwanted junk, and indulge in other interesting activities. After a couple of old mattresses, several used condoms, and some tires were deposited, I decided to try and curtail that behavior. So far, I have solved that problem, but invited another.

I just get tired of having to spend a half hour futzing with the damaged padlock every time I want to drive on my land, so I am looking for something different. I think Daniel is on the right track.

-Joe

Clyde wrote:

I've seen *old* combination locks where one dialled the knob by feel - with detents inside the case to give "bumps". I haven't seen these lately, but it could be that supply houses for the blind might carry them.

As far as the removable dial - I think you could make an equivalent one for yourself. Take a normal lock, cut a slot in the top of the knob, and then take a round piece of plastic (roughly the size of the dial) and cut it so that its center will sit in the slot, and then mark its rim with the locations of the dial point. Then, even if the numbers on the dial get filed off, you can place this plastic on the dial knob and dial in the combo.

I don't know about your jurisdiction, but in many the presence of a token gate makes prosecution of those who ignore the signs. It's hard to claim you didn't see a sign if you had to stop to open a gate or cut a cable.

So both sign and physical obstruction work together to protect your rights.

Daniel

The British postal authorities seemed to have a similar problem many, many years ago. The red round 'pillar boxed' are (unless things have changed in recent years) locked with a six (or so) lever lock operated by (I think) a barrel key. Some boxes had a keyhole cover which was moved out of the way by turning a flat 'knob' with two shallow holes, using the bow of the main key which had two studs on it to fit the holes. Wonder if anyone makes padlocks using a similar principle (could just be a screw cap over the keyhole).

A couple of possibilities:

  1. Heavy duty chain/cable with inexpensive light to medium duty lock - if they scerw the lock up just cut them off and toss them.
2, Railroad swithch lock - sometimes aavailable on ebay - Sargent Greenleaf environmnetal lock - pretty much andal proof but probably pricey.

I'm not a locksmith - just the proverbial lurker.

Do I vaguely recall the existence of locks with no rotation of keys to actuate the mechanism? The key is some sort of multi-magnet item that actuates the mechanism if held adjacent to the lock, possibly in a concave recess in the side.

Or am I totally dreaming? (in which case I'll apologize in advance.)

Art

Art Temporary usercode - to be deleted when spam starts. Use MyBrainHurts at this ISP to reach me

I have one of those - but it isn't sealed. On the "front" of the padlock there is a round area with a notch on the circumfrence. Rotating that area will open the padlock. But it will only rotate if the correct magnets are held in the round area.

The key is about the size of 3 nickels stacked together, with a small tail at only point for rotational leverage, and there is a "tooth" which fits into the notch.

So the key is put against the front of the lock and rotated (about 15 degrees) and the shackle pops open.

For this, there is a small gap around the round piece that needs to turn - so it also could be attacked.

USED to be such a critter... dont know if there is still...

--Shiva--

That's a really good idea, and probably his simplest, cheapest solution.

You would want to go high voltage. e.g. an electric fence box. Of couse the cable and lock would have to be isolated from the ground. And before anyone says that high voltage kills no it doesn't, amperage kills. The average back yard dog control box is 8 - 10K volts.

Depends on the cable and lock. In this posters case it's apparantly keeping them off now. Probably part of the reason they are vandalizing it.

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