For short term storage, I like "Sheath". This is inexpensive and available in most gun stores. It is very commonly used for seasonal storage of guns. I also save all those little dessicant packets that come packed in nearly everything these days. I use them inside surplus ammo cans or plastic boxes to store small tools (mostly bullet moulds) etc. The fact that they come packed in so many products is testimony to the fact that they work. As stated by other posters, enclosing the parts in an airtight container makes a big difference. Make sure things are clean before storage, apply your "film", use dessicant, place in sealed container...don't worry!
Sorry, the qualification "heavy paraffinic" here does not mean wax or waxiness. The CAS number refers to an viscous liquid distillate, heavy in the sense of heavy weight oil.
In fact, SAE 30 motor oil is based on this exact item.
For the third time, I understand that. But the fact that the word=20 paraffin has, contrary to its technical definition, come to mean wax in=20 common usage does not mean that some paraffins are not wax-like.
You've snipped this citation twice before, but it's precisely on point.
********************************************* paraffinic hydrocarbon The group of hydrocarbons consisting of linear molecules with the=20 formula CnH2n+2. Methane, CH4, is the simplest member. Higher members,=20 starting at about C18, are wax-like and are called paraffin.
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And here's another from a document titled "CONSOLIDATED LIST OF C/M/R- SUBSTANCES"
********************************************* CAS 64742-54-7=20
Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy paraffinic; Base oil - unspecified (A complex combination of hydrocarbons obtained by treating a petroleum fraction with hydrogen in the presence of a catalyst. It consists of hydrocarbons having carbon numbers predominantly in the range of C20 through C50 and produces a finished oil of at least 19 10-6 m2.s-1 at 40 =B0C. It contains a relatively large proportion of saturated hydrocarbons.)
**********************************************
This article mentions Docosane, C22H46, near the low end of the=20 molecular weight of the constituents of CAS 64742-54-7.=20
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"Docosane, a wax at room temperature"
Here's the MSDS for eicosane, even lower molecular weight, C20H42.
I'm not a big fan of Wikipedia, but I spot checked the data in the=20 tables in this article against the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics,=20 and it looks OK. It shows the melting point of Heptadecane, C17H36, as=20
21C - room temperature. Note that C17H36 is lighter than the predominant=20 constituents of CAS 64742-54-7.
A third time for your definitional retreat. First you boldfaced "paraffinic" to imply wax. Then you retreated and said "heavy" made it waxy. Now you're down to not meaning "some" somethings are not blah- blah.
Any of the petroleum distillates could contribute from their small proportions of such weights. This sub-thread is whether they equate purely to wax.
insisting
I do not recall ever using the words "overpriced" and "PTFE" (or "Teflon") together. Nor does deja.com.
I do recall discussing Turcite B over a year ago. While I initially speculated that it was PTFE, in an extended thread there were several observations that implied it was filled with other component(s) (an implication I accepted), but no one could identify what those components might be, or what mechanical properties like creep strength were improved and how much.
I can report that my rescraped Bridgeport ways, which I lined with relatively inexpensive bondable Teflon sheet from MSC and ordinary epoxy cement, have performed perfectly and held up flawlessly over the last few years. Having investigated the creep strength issue (sometimes mislabeled "cold flow"), and tried my conclusions with this machine test, I am convinced that plain PTFE is fine for that application, and similar ones with bearing pressures in the 100s of psi, as is the case with most oil-film ways, because the creep strength is not exceeded.
If that's what you consider the subject of this discussion, then it's odd that you continue to harp on what you perceive to be a misconception on my part about a definition (after I've agreed with you several times), and continue to ignore all the on-point stuff I've posted re the "waxiness" of heavy vs. light paraffinic distillates.
BTW, "purely" is your word - I've never said that the heavy distillates are composed of "purely" waxy compounds.
Let me know when you've got something substantive to add.
Richard, you clearly know so much about this that you aren't willing to listen. Maybe you should try both products as rust preventatives and report back to us. For myself, I don't enjoy pissing contests.
True, you didn't use the word "purely". You said alternately that the word "*paraffinic*" (your emphasis on a erroneous disambiguation to wax) or "heavy" "does mean waxy compounds". More definitional retreat.
You're mistaken. I've consistently used the phrase "heavy paraffinic." But if you want an argument over the definition of paraffinic, I'll make it easy for you. My new definition for paraffinic is "farts in church."
So how does that make CAS 64742-54-7, and thus dried LPS-3, any less wax-like?
It doesn't. Some heavy paraffins are waxy. Some aren't, like the petroleum base for motor oil (same CAS number in some brands). The wretched words, alone or together, specify other properties than "waxy".
Perhaps I mistook why you were boldfacing "*paraffinic*", which is what got this started. Organic chemistry nomenclature is a minefield. Don't take me too seriously.
Agreed. I was only trying to come up with a plausible explanation for the very different consistencies of WD-40/LPS-1 and LPS-3. It would seem that CAS 64742-54-7 is a rather general specification and I'd assume that the specific blend used in LPS-3 is a mixture of heavier fractions than what I'd expect to find in a motor oil.
Ok - it is used on wood tools and such as well - but where do you get it - and since it is maybe a hand oil ... what is it ?
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member
If cheap is your goal, use Engine Oil a quart of 30 Wt is only a couple bucks, an old paintbrush makes a great applicator. An open can makes for good dipping, a can with holes punched in bottom can be filled with bolts and the like, pour oil from top to bottom, use larger can to catch what drains through. WD40 is ok, good for rusty stuff, sounds like you want a high film strength for long term storage. WD40 would require repeat applications.
Camillia oil is pressed from the seeds of Camellia japonica. It's the oil the samurai of old used on the blades of their swords, and Japanese craftsman still use on their tools today.
There are several on-line sources. I usually get mine from The Japan Woodworker
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or Garrett-Wade
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It may seem more expensive than WD-40, but the 8oz bottle lasts a long time. Even with all the chisels, planes, saws, etc., in my shop.
It's also sold by beauty shops (at much higher prices) as a skin softener or wrinkle remover. But I haven't noticed any differences in the calluses on my hands.
Figures they would use a beautiful flower and kill the young :-( It is hard to beat the color and shape of a good Camellia. Akin to the lowly hedge around so many houses.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member
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