Light box for object photography

Wow, it was right in there all along! Thanks, Leon. I can use that.

Playing with colors in L,a,b or other colorspace that has a density channel and two-pole color channels (like HSB) is very tricky. I see from the article that the author has tried to rationalize it. I'll have to look it over.

Thanks again!

Reply to
Ed Huntress
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No I don't have that one...

I went looking for it on the net and didn't find anyplace I'd want to risk downloading anything from.

If you wouldn't mind?

Reply to
Richard

TIFF can be saved with compression too -- and I would use many of those -- but not the JPEG compression.

O.K.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Certainly.

Do you have the service manual? It's available as a .pdf file online, but I could send a copy to you.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

It's about time you washed them! I hope you did a good job, this time! ;-)

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

it doesn't work!

Reply to
Richard

ok - it finally did...

Thanks

Reply to
Richard

Quit thinking strobes! It's 2013, Floods will do! If it looks good to your eye, it will look good to the camera.

And if you really want to make it pop, get a camera that does HDR Mode

- Multiple shots, automatically bracketed exposures, and the computer matches and blends the bright areas with the dark areas. Automatic Dodge & Burn.

The equivalent ISO of a Digital camera is miles ahead of film - the days where you had to use ISO-25 Kodachrome to get fine grain and good detail are long over - Besides, so is Kodachrome.

Get a batch of 300W or 500W Quartz stand lights, I'm sure you can come up with *that*... And for reflective surfaces you rig up some cloud diffusers in front, or bounce them off aluminized screen fabric. Think Windshield Spring Shades, the aluminized side.

Try to get the lamps all close to the same color temperature - the camera can correct the color temperature, but not if one side is lit at 5000K and the other side at 2700K - it'll freak.

For a background, new clean off-white canvas Painters Tarps. Already sewn together, cheap, big enough to drape on the wall and then bring out on the floor or table. And easy to dump in a commercial washer with a box or two of Rit Dye if you want colors.

And when you're done taking pictures, use the tarps for painting. The paint splotches will add extra pizzazz to the photos, and nobody will steal your funny colored dropcloths - they'd stand out in even a satellite photo. "Hey, Gunner made a batch of Tie-Dye Buckskin Tan dropcloths like this a few years ago, and then they disappeared from the back of his truck..."

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
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A nice collection of useful tricks. Thanks. I've been working self-taught, and did not know of those tricks. Bookmarked for the next thing that she decides to share.

Right now, I am dealing with some 78 rolls of B&W negatives, recently scanned. I've gotten quite a few ussable images out of terribly exposed negatives. Not much I can do about when the shutter on the Contaflex Super was sticking partially open -- lots of weird streaks on those images. :-) About the time I move on to the Miranda F, and got true lens interchangeability. (The Contaflex Super had only the front element interchangeable, with a between the lens shutter.

Thanks, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

[ ... ]

Agreed -- at least if you let the camera learn the proper color balance for the lights you have. There are a lot of presets for various light sources, and at least some have the ability to measure the color balance off a neutral gray card for a given setup -- and use that.

[ ... ]

Yep. I'm shooting up to ISO 3200. (And back in the days of the Kodachrome you mentioned, it was ASA-25, not ISO-25. :-) IIRC, the other common system in use then was DIN -- a very different scale, and if you were lucky, your exposure meter was marked with both scales. :-)

Unless you want to use the color difference for modeling shapes. Let the camera learn the proper white balance for one set of lights alone, and use the other to make interesting color shading.

Well ... perhaps not for close-ups on really small things. The coarse weave will stand out in the images.

:-)

How about camouflage pattern?

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Here are a copies of the service & use manuals:

Service Manual:

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Click on download on the third line below the preview image.

User Manual:

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Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

You're welcome. My camera no longer remembers the date & time. The battery is supposed to be on the main board, but the battery part number draws a blank. I an going to wait till I have the new air conditioning in place, and a new workbench finished so I have plenty of light and I'm less likely to lose any of those tiny screws.

The fan bearings went in my A/C the other day. I picked up a new GE

8,000 BTU at Sam's Club for $187 yesterday, but I'll have to wait a few days to get help to lift it up, and put it into the wall.

The old unit was ~ 10 years old, and a new fan was $192 wit a six week wait. I doubt the old motor is worth repairing. From the high pitched death wail it let out, I would expect to find badly worn shafts and chewed up sleeve bearings.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Can't do that - the stuff would be lost forever...

Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)
[ ... ]

A suggestion from the watchmakers and jewelers people, who deal with this problem all the time.

Set up a frame which pulls out from the bench like a drawer, but which has a soft light cloth attached slackly in the frame, so small screws and parts dropped won't bounce off to never-never land, and will simply roll to the lowest point in the middle and wait patiently to be recovered.

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

You don' need no steenkin' lightbox. About any aimable strobe compatible with your camera will suffice, just one will suffice nicely. The other accessory would be an aluminized umbrella, available for about $30. The backwards-aimed strobe bounces off the umbrella. Many excellent professional photos of technical objects, including photos for glossy corporate annual reports, have been done this way with a single bounce strobe. Been there, seen that done. The pro photographer was Al W at Honeywell, Inc.

I've used an Olympus FL-40 which works with my old Camedia 2500 and will also work with C 3030, C 4040 and C 5050.

Reply to
Don Foreman

I like a slight lip on the edges of the bench, to keep things from rolling off. :)

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Yes -- that is good -- but tiny screws tend to bounce and hop over the lip -- and then go hiding down there on the floor. Or -- I have found them in the cuffs of pants which had cuffs -- after a half hour looking on a white tile floor. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Pants, in Florida? Are ye insane, man? ;-)

Items with small screws are serviced on colored carpet samples, and a foot front the edge of the bench. :)

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

I may be insane (I haven't been tested recently), but I'm not in Florida. I had that pants cuff experience in an Army lab on raised white tile flooring, and with overly-aggressive air conditioning.

Hmm ... solid colored? Patterns could act as camouflage and make it more difficult to find things.

Enjoy, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Air conditioning in the shop? I'm lucky to be able to afford the window AC for my bedroom, and set it for 80° F. It's shorts, a thin tee-shirt and a fan aimed right at me.

Always solid colors. I keep a half dozen different colors so I can pick one that has good contrast to what I'm working on.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

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