Another question re the GLR Boiler

In message , Mark W writes

Use soft brass or copper shim washers. BTW, don't be tempted to use red fibre washers they tend to laminate.

Or Green Hermetite. It allows you to position the fitting where you want (they don't have to be tightened up hard) and goes off hard itself when it gets hot (as most fitting on the backhead or boiler do!)

Cheers

Peter

Mike H wrote:

In message , Peter Sheppard writes

I am using a combination of shim washers and a non-setting compound (Comma Blue). How hard does Green Hermetite set?

I am going to do the bolier next, nearly finished the GLR mill eng. I have however read though many times the stan Bray article and thought I had see something about this point . No! But I have seen somewhere comment that it best to Silver solder on bushes to the out side and not pierce the boiler barrel. . The bushes dont need to be very deep & can be drilled & tapped before soldering. You may have to redesign the back plate a bit One has the same issue with the bushes at the top & for the water gauge although you have to pierce the latter bushes. I suppose the bushes add strength & meat to a potential weak point

Mike D

Well, two questions really. First about the firehole door assembly. The drawings simply say fix to the boiler with 4 x 8BA bolts. There must be more to it than that otherwise the bolts would cause a leak as they go through the pressure vessel ? Should the surround be silver soldered in place, or am I missing something blindingly obvious ?

Secondly, how do you get the fittings point in the correct direction when they are tightened up in the bushes.

Thanks Mark

Solid!

Cheers

Peter

What I do is: Drill and tap the outer shell for 4 M3 brass studs. Silver solder said studs in place. Make up a stainless plate with a holes for the firebox hole and for the studs. The plate carries a hinge 'bracket' for a ss door with an bracket for door handle silver soldered to it which can then be bolted to the studs. Slightly oversize holes in the stainless plate if the studs are normal to the arc of the outer shell or judicious bending of the studs so they line up with the holes in the plate before soldering. OR Make up a copper plate to suite the arc of the shell with holes for the firebox and studs. Silver solder to the outer shell. Make up a stainless plate to carry the door hinge bracket and handle bracket as before. This avoids drilling the outer shell and subsequent contact of brass with water. Hope this makes sense. I may have photos knocking about if you want to come back on it!

Regards Kevin Heyes

As to the bushes: You can get compressible washers that give an extra half turn or so for fittings, or make up a selection of copper washers and anneal befor final fitting. fiddly but worth while. No problems silver soldering phospher bronze bushes in holes drilled through outer shell.

Regards Kevin Heyes

handle silver soldered to it which can then be

studs are normal to the arc of the outer shell or

before soldering.

and studs. Silver solder to the outer shell.

before. This avoids drilling the outer shell

Sorry Should have said that the studs are screwed and soldered to the copper plate then carefully position plate with attached studs onto shell then solder assembly to shell.This avoids drilling the outer shell and subsequent contact of brass with water.