Clear coats

I'm not sure I remember -- which clear coat is the one that eats
decals? I'm thinking between the Krylon Clear Coat (which I think is
the decal eating one), and Testors Glossy Cote / Dull Cote sprays (which
I seem to remember is OK).
Yes, I know Future works sorta/kinda, but I want to avoid the yellowing
problems...
David Erbas-White
P.S. Sorry for the on-topic post, now back to our regularly scheduled
ramblings.
Reply to
David Erbas-White
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It depends. What type of decal do you want to clear? I have heard (but don't know from experience) that the testors product is decal friendly. I do know both Krylon or Rustoleum clear will trash waterslide decals from JimZ or Tango Papa. The ALPS ink that those decals are printed with doesn't like the solvent in the clear. One way around the problem is to give the decal a few coats of Future before you cut the sheet apart. Then clear with Krylon or Rustoleum as normal after application. Vinyl decals (at least the ones I've used) don't care what kind of clear you put on them. Testing an extra decal for compatibility is your best bet....that's what I would do.
Reply to
J.A. Michel
You're right, I should have been clearer (pun intended ).
This is for the waterslide decal on the Semroc Mars Lander. Don't know who they get them from, but it's likely to be the same 'type' as the Tango Papa decals, so I'll steer clear of the Krylon/Rustoleum. Any comments on the Testors would be appreciated from those who've tried it.
Regarding the Future, do folks use an airbrush, or simply one of those 'spray' squirt bottles? Thinned at all, and if so, with what, and how much?
David Erbas-White
Reply to
David Erbas-White
I'd use a sponge mop. 8-)
Seriously, I've tried it and don't think it is as good as clear coat.
Phil
Reply to
Phil Stein
Actually, Future may be the *best* product to use as a clear coat, for its versatility, but admittedly, it requires different techniques. It actually has the reputation of being *less* likely to yellow over time, when used properly.
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:o)
Reply to
Greg Heilers
Seriously, that's what I really do.
Did you put on plenty of layers?
Reply to
Darren J Longhorn
Regarding Semroc decals they appear to be much tougher than JimZ or Tango Papa (or Excelsior for that matter). My Semroc SLS Skyhook has Krylon Crystal Clear top coat with not one wrinkle. As to the others I use Future as a clear coat applied with a foam brush and it does not yellow. I coat the other decals with MicroScale Liquid Decal Film before applying to the models. I did not coat the Semroc decals with anything.
Reply to
Bruce Sexton
I assume you mean FUture - How many is plenty? The thing I didn't like was that it wasn't a nice smooth finish like you get with paint.
Reply to
Phil Stein
Yeah, Future. I use 3 or 4 layers, polishing in between.
Reply to
Darren J Longhorn
Hmmm...that is a new one. How did you apply it? The magic of Future, and the reason it is so popular with scale modelers, for use with decals, and for sprucing up clear parts like cockpit canopies...is because it dries *very* clear, does not yellow; and has incredible self-leveling qualities, resulting in a remarkably smooth finish.
Reply to
Greg Heilers
You polish it with a rag after it dries.
At the end of the season I remove the Future with Windex, wash with a mild solution of detergent/warm water and redcoat with Future. It never yellows and does offer some pretty decent cosmetic protection.
I'm starting to sound like the Martha Stewart of rocketry :)
Ted Novak TRA#5512 IEAS#75
Reply to
the notorious t-e-d
maybe could try automotive polyurthane... does not yellow and dries very hard and scratch resistant, and no chemicals, including acetone and lacquer thinner, will ever affect it. Only thing that can dissolve it (and requires sealing the thing in a bag) is a product called "aircraft remover". However it is quite toxic and requires some equipments to spray them on. Not something you want in your garage.
Reply to
tai fu

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