I use an Iwata eclipse and have had it for a few years now with good
results. I don't model all the time and keep it in its original box in
a cabinet after each use.
I use windex to clean it and water in the sink, I airbrush exclusively
I just ran into a problem for the first time as the needle got stuck
and wouldn't move in and out of the hole where the paint comes out of.
After taking it completely apart I realized that paint had accumulated
inside it, not a lot but enough to create the problem.
I want to take the whole airbrush apart and soak it all into a
solution that will strip all these little bits of paints. What can I
Thanks a lot
Can you recommend a brand of Lacquer thinner or any will do?
Either Lacquer thinner or ammonia, do you just soak all the parts in
it? How long?
Any risks of any kind?
Sorry to sound stupid, I love my airbrush.
varois83 wrote in news:4ef7b1a0-45f2-4f62-a4c2-
If you have access to a chemistry lab, you can do what I do: sonicate
the parts in acetonitrile (methyl cyanide). Knocks acrylic right off.
: Can you recommend a brand of Lacquer thinner or any will do?
Any brand will do. I buy it at one of the big box stores, in
the yellow/orange and blue cans. Lacquer thinner is pretty much
lacquer thinner, and you are only using it to clean with. Although
I do use it to thin Floquil primer...
: Either Lacquer thinner or ammonia, do you just soak all the parts in
: it? How long?
I used to leave the tip parts of my Paasche 'H' in a jar of
lacquer thinner, assembling the bits when I was ready to paint.
With my T&C airbrushes, the long needle makes that unrealistic,
so I just clean the parts using pipe cleaners, q-tips and paper
: Any risks of any kind?
I would not suggest subjecting plastic to lacquer thinner for
I have had your problem with my T&C Omni 4000 - I dunk the
back of the needle in lacquer thinner and run it up and down the
body of the airbrush, trigger, spring and needle holder several
times, otherwise it will set up. I only need to this with the
Omni, a gravity feed, and not the Vega, a siphon, probably because
the paint has little opportunity to get back near the body of the
airbrush with the Vega.
: T&C,Thayer & Chandler?,they still around?,I had one back in thee70s at
: art school.
They are part of Badger now, but they are still available,
as are parts. Given that the airhose connection was for Badger
airhoses, and they were also based in Chicago, I guess this was
not an unreasonable development.
I like them for their slim barrels, and spacing from the
air valve to the paint supply, whether it be the Vega (siphon)
or the Omni (gravity).
And, yeah, I choose the airbrush depending on how much paint
I need to shoot, although I also had a very rude experience with
shooting Tamiya first (thinned with Gunze Mr. Thinner) and then
moving to Polly Scale - at some point, the air passages in the
Omni (the Vega needed a new barrel o-ring) got clogged, and the
paint "glopped" more than atomized.
Yeah, I should have quite when I really noticed this issue,
but I was pushing to get the painting finished. Now I get to
remove the paint, and I have not decided if I will sand the pieces
or chemically strip them...
This is the original poster. I did soak all the parts of my iwata
eclipse in ammonia today. Tonight I cleaned them a little deeper with
a tissue then I rinsed and dried.Put it together and plugged into the
air compressor, ho my god what a difference, it is so powerful now, I
am totally amazed.