What Decoder do I use ?

Chris skriver: ESU Lokpilot 2.0 if You ask Me
Klaus

I should of been more clear. I would like to stay with Digitrax. Also I am in the U.S. and I have not seen those here.
What I have found is a DZ125. I believe this would work, just not sure. It is just motor and lights.
Chris

Chris wrote in news:00519e72$0$16882$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
There's no reason to stay with Digitrax, unless you want transponding. Anyway, check the current draw of your trolley against the continual current draw of the decoder.
To do this, use a multimeter ($3 at Harbor Freight or many internet sites) set to 10 Amps and a standard DC power supply. Connect the multimeter in series with one wire (so current goes through the meter), and hold your locomotive down so the wheels can't turn and turn the power on to ~12V. The reading you get is the maximum amount of current the motor can draw. Don't hold the locomotive down any longer than it takes to take a reading.
N and Z decoders often cannot handle as much current as their HO counterparts, so it's well worth checking current draw. (I really should put an ammeter on my test track...)
Puckdropper

Thanks for the info. I will do that tonight.
Thanks Chris

Measured the current it was .40. I believe the decoder should work. Am I wrong? Is there something that I am missing? What decoders do you usually use?
Chris

Chris wrote in news:005165f7$0$4365$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:
At .40A, that's well within the range of most decoders. The DZ125 is rated at 1.0A, about twice your measurement so it should be fine.
Right now, I've got all TCS decoders except one SoundBug-equiped locomotive. One of the members here gave me a good deal on a bunch of older TCS T1s. They've worked very nicely with Digitrax control.
Puckdropper

Hi Chris I like TCS for their "no Fault Warranty" If you screw it up, they replace it.. I have now installed 7. 4 were plug and play, 3 were hard wire.. They work great with my Digitrax system Mike