<John Turner> Where and when

I'm afraid it's very unlikely that I'll be able to help you with the Where and When questions. But nevertheless I'd like to say how much I am enjoying looking at the wonderful pictures and following the discussions. You can never have too many pics of LMS engines! :-)

Thanks very much for sharing these pics.....

Regards

-- Enzo

I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.

Reply to
Enzo Matrix
Loading thread data ...

John Turner > Having read your comments on weathering elsewhere on this group, you'll

...and look at all that clutter on the Jinty tank tops! My engines certainly don't have that sort of thing - maybe they should...

Colour photos are very nice, but there is something about b&w that seems to render its subject in almost clinical detail. I get the idea, from looking at the picture of 44818, that the filthy boiler even has a certain

*texture*. Would you concur with that observation?

-- Enzo

I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.

Reply to
Enzo Matrix

Talcum powder is good, but from my military modelling days I can recommend the dust produced when you cut MDF - as fine as talcum powder but a free waste product.

I've found that the best way to apply it is to mix it on a tray on shallow bowl with a wash (very thinned down paint with the texture of watery ink) of your base weathering colour. Paint it on allowing the paint to gather in natural hollows, around bolt heads, joins etc. Wipe away from numbers, glass (but allow it collect around frames etc) and any livery - to make it look as though "somebody" is trying to make an effort to keep it clean.

Allow to dry then apply a second wash - this time without any added bulk (MDF powder etc) but apply to the whole model - not just the bits washed down with the texture. Then dry brush the entire model with highlighting/lowlighting shades (or powders) as required.

Reply to
Chris Wilson

"Enzo Matrix" wrote

Try spraying with matt varnish and letting that dry thoroughly before you start weathering. I found that, coupled with dry-brushing techniques produces an interesting texture.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

"Enzo Matrix" <

Schools? Repainted? Practice?

Heretic!

You know where you can stuff your cheese! ;-)

-- Cheers Roger T.

formatting link
of the Great Eastern Railway

Reply to
Roger T.

I also spray with Dullcote first, it not only protects the decals (transfers) but makes a good fixative for the weather materials. Once I'm finished weathering, another coat of Dullcote.

Although I model North American, weathering is weathering, and you can see the results of my approach in my photo album.

-- Cheers Roger T.

formatting link
of the Great Eastern Railway

Reply to
Roger T.

"Chris Wilson" wrote

MDF dust is carcinogenic! I wouldn't recommend it under any circumstances.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

So are potatoes, lead makes you fick and according to that most unimpeachable source the holy order of EU commissars rhubarb is deadly poison.

We all eat spuds and I bet that most of the folks here abouts have spent half their life's in houses with lead pipes (my parents still have a lead mains pipe supplying them) and as for rhubarb ...

I have no wish whatsoever to cause offence or start an argument but some dangers are over-stated and even when there are real dangers reasonable precautions can often fully dissipate the potential risk.

MDF dust floating in the air - wear a mask, vacuum up the waste certainly - absolutely. But I'd argue that there is little risk in collecting some (whilst masked) into an old plastic tub, sealing it, letting it settle and in due course carefully mixing it with diluted paint. Once mixed it is certainly not going to float abou in the atmosphere - even it becomes dislodged from a model - the weight of the paint (yup back to lead based enamal paints ) holds it on the ground.

Horses for courses ...

Reply to
Chris Wilson

"Enzo Matrix" wrote

I agree, but not remembering steam, I'm useless for helping... Unless John has a few of the East Mids areas... Then I may help... One fav of mine from Johns enormous web site is a picture of a class 47 coming over the A617 bridge at Chesterfield... It reminds me of before the area was altered, and unless you knew the area before, would hardly recognise it now...

Yeah, keep up the good work John, Despite critism from some folk here, I think (personally) that you have made a great achievement with the site and with your enthusiasm for the hobby!

Andy (No connection, just a satisfied (once only at this stage) customer)

Reply to
CVMRD

"Roger T." wrote

We're not talking MDF, we're talking MDF dust - there is a subtle difference which should be apparant even to a North American. ;-)

John.

Reply to
John Turner

A Rhubarb leaf salad? DTTAH!!!!

Reply to
GbH

You may be thinking of OSB (oriented strand board) "OSB is manufactured from waterproof heat-cured adhesives and rectangularly shaped wood strands that are arranged in cross-oriented layers, similar to plywood. This results in a structural engineered wood panel that shares many of the strength and performance characteristics of plywood. Produced in huge, continuous mats, OSB is a solid panel product of consistent quality with no laps, gaps or voids." It can stand up to moisture without rotting or warping.

MDF will swell and delaminate if it gets wet. MDF is commonly used indoors for door frames, baseboards, moulding etc., as it can be made in long lengths with a more uniform surface than pine.

Reply to
MartinS

You cannot build a house without cutting MDF, which causes dust, which should be apparent even to a UK resident. ;-)

-- Cheers Roger T.

formatting link
of the Great Eastern Railway

Reply to
Roger T.

"MartinS"

Martin, once again you may be correct.

But I think that MDF is used for flooring these days rather than plywood?

I'm sure I've seen it being delivered by the truckload to construction sites.

-- Cheers Roger T.

formatting link
of the Great Eastern Railway

Reply to
Roger T.

In message , Roger T. writes

What did they do before MDF was invented?

Reply to
John Sullivan

"Roger T." wrote

But you can cut it in a controlled environment using specialist equipment and masks. I doubt if that same level of control would be available for the average modeller.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

Buffalo hide ;-)

Reply to
Chris Wilson

"John Sullivan" <

Plywood. Before that lathe.

In general, north American buildings are wood, or mainly wood. Even those ones that look like brick or concrete clad are really wood framed.

The exception would be older, say pre 1930 to 40s warehouses etc, that if the look like brick or concrete, they are.

However, housing, apartment buildings, shopping centres, modern three or so story office buildings and commercial establishments are wood construction, with 2 x 4 (4 x 2) framing, various veneers on the facing, fake concrete, fake brick, stucco, plastic clapboard etc. Roofs will be tar and gravel if flat, if peaked, wooden or asphalt shingles (Tiles). Insulation will be done with plastic sheeting for a vapour barrier and Fiberglas or foam.

Yep, in Victoria, the average house is around Can$250,000 and is all wood and plastic.

-- Cheers Roger T.

formatting link
of the Great Eastern Railway

Reply to
Roger T.

"Roger T." wrote

Well outdoors is better than in a restricted area and I presume your workers have enough sense to use masks?

John.

Reply to
John Turner

Yup the Discovery (Home and Leisure) Channel is one of my favourites.

Big Norm and his big tools in his big shop!

Reply to
Chris Wilson

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.