Lenz Compact L60500 and Lenz LS150 questions.

"Edward Bray" wrote

I can beat that if you pay cash, but the postage may be a killer.

I don't think the Compact can handle the additional current so you may be wasting your money. I use a Compact with a TR100 and it's been fine running four locos at once, but I don't use DCC for operating points. I'm not convinced that the Compact is an ideal tool if you intend operating points.

Think you need one for each set of six points.

Don't know for sure.

I don't like them. Bachmann have had these coded to their own spec and they are nowhere near as good as the genuine Lenz 1014 (which is now technically discontinued). Conisider the new Lenz 'Silver' and 'Gold' decoders as certainly the best options.

It causes the loco motor to 'buzz'. Not acceptable to me, but I know people who are happy with them.

Lenz 'Silver' and 'Gold' are superb.

John,

53A Models, Hull.

Hi John,

Thanks for your reply,

I bit the bullet and bought the Compact starter kit for £160 (Hattons) as well as everything I need initially to set up my outfit (track, points, point motors, some rolling stock, couple of buildings, some kits) now have to figure how to tell the wife I spent over £500 on toys. I think I'll just tell her that they gave me free next day delivery and omit the rest :)

I bought the starter kit as I was planning to buy the TR100 and LS150 as well as the Compact anyway as well as a couple of the Bachmann decoders (£13 each), this would have cost me £175 seperately and in effect I get 2 Lenz

1025 decoders, one with a plug and one without for less money.The one with the plug can go in the Bachmann 08 class shunter (DCC ready) and the other one can go in the 45xx series Prarie.

I quess I will find out the other answers to my questions when I try to fire it up.

Just a couple of questions you may be able to help with,

How do I tell how much current a motor is using? If I connect an ammeter in series with the positive wire to the line and run the train will this give me the current required to run the motor? I would like to chip the Bachmann Thomas, Percy and James engines I already have but if possible would like to use the small N gauge (.5 amp) decoders.

How long should I run a motor in on a DC track prior to fitting the decoder? Can I just set up a small oval with a cheap Hornby controller and leave it running for a hour or two?

Regards, Eddie.

"Edward Bray" wrote

Don't worry about it. I've got one customer who damaged a loco trying to do a stall current test, whereas I don't know anyone who has burnt out a decoder in a standard production OO-scale loco because it drew too much current.

I've got at least one Bachmann 08 shunter running an LE0511 (0.5amp) decoder, and that has shunted some pretty heavy trains without any problem.

The Silver & Gold decoders also have a higher short term amperage tollerance which is another reason to use them.

Personally I just make sure they work satisfactorily under DC control and then bang a decoder in and get on with the business. I can't see any need for running in prior to fitting the decoder providing the loco(s) work ok to start with.

John.

Thanks John

I'll just follow up on a couple of John's answers

Generally it's one point motor per output from th the LS150. That said it is possible to connect at least two (I've not tried more) in for example a crossover where you would need to move both points at the same time anyway

You won't need a CDU

Nigel

Thanks for the reply Nigel,

I have planned for eight sets of points on my layout, but was hopingto move

2 lots of 2 together. This would enable me to run the other four independently and save the need for buying a further LS150. Although I always have that option if I change the design in the future.

Regards, Eddie.

What I would do is connect one motor to start and make sure that works. Try adding the second and it that works as well no problem. If it doesn't it will probably be because the combined current draw has tripped the LS150 out. I can't remember if each output is protected separately but I'm sure that you have to cut the AC power to the LS150 to reset it.

Did you say you would be using Peco point motors. If so you also might need to keep in mind that there seems to be quite a large sample variation with regards to current draw. If you happen to pick two that draw heavier current then it might not work!!

Nigel

You could fit the Peco change-over switch to one of the Peco point motors so that the second motor is only connected _after_ the first one has thrown.

Hi Nigel,

No I have bought Seep PM-1 motors with a built in switch as these were recommended to me.

Will do as you advise and try a couple together before I fit them and do the wiring.

Thanks for the advice though.

Eddie.