Removing the early BR logo from the Hornby Q1

Have just tried to remove the early BR logo from the Hornby Q1 I have, but the usual white spirit / enamel thinners aren't working at all well. Can anyone advise me if they have found a more successful way to remove this logo without damaging the plastic of the tender?

Before anyone asks, no I don't want the late logo version that Hornby produce, as it is factory weathered, and I really hate these factory weathering finishes.

Regards,

Ian Vale

Reply to
Ian J.
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Cannot do the respray - I don't have an air brush and it's not something I am at all good at (having attempted to use one lent to me - won't do such a thing again!).

Regards,

Ian J.

Reply to
Ian J.

Presuming you are going to weather this loco, rub the transfer off with some thing like fine wire wool being careful not to gouge the tender sides. then re-spray the tender black and weather. This works for me.

Reply to
piemanlarger

"Ian J." wrote

Not tried it, wouldn't bother me having either crest - some loco's survived with the earlier crest until the last few months of steam - as late as 1967 if I remember correctly.

Having said all of that, one method I've used in the past is to lay some sellotape over the logo and then peel it free. Depending upon how the logo was applied it can (if you're lucky) lift the emblem on peeling. You may need to repeat, or it may not work at all.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

Try " T cut" car polish restorer and a cotton bud, rub slowly over number and only the number until it comes off .

All the best Steve

Reply to
The Parkys

I dont use an airbrush, I use cans of "Car" spray paint and railmatch spray cans!

Reply to
piemanlarger

Many thanks your answers.

Finally came up with a solution (though not a perfect one). Solvaset (TM) to soften, then white spirit to remove. Worked ok, but leaves a patch around the 'etch' of the early logo. Hoping that once properly weathered, this will be almost unnoticable.

Now just need to know if any of the Q1s had a large logo on the tender, as against the small one (a large late logo will hide more of the early logo 'etch').

Also, did any of the ex LNER J39s (as per Bachmann model) ever get to late logo, and if so, did they get large or small logo on the tender? Have scoured net for pictures, but found none!

Ian J.

Reply to
Ian J.

Ian J

Bit difficult to tell, really. On almost every picture that I've seen of late period Q1s the BR crest is all but hidden under huge quantities of muck and filth. However, I think 33008 may well have had the large crest.

Just a thought - wouldn't a Q1 with the late crest also have the large washout holes in the cladding? The current Hornby model doesn't appear to have them.

-- Enzo

I wear the cheese. It does not wear me.

Reply to
Enzo Matrix

You know, I hadn't even noticed those holes. There are a few pictures of Q1s on the SEmG website, however, though they show the wash out holes toward the bottom of the cladding for the firebox, none are clear enough as to the logo size.

Gonna have to get the drill out for those holes now....what size were they?

Ian J.

Reply to
Ian J.

Have just looked at Hornby website, and the 'weathered' (yuk) late logo Q1 does have the wash out holes...

Ian J.

Reply to
Ian J.

Hi John,

I'm in a similar situation as Ian in that I have a Hornby 8F (48154 unweathered) with which I intend to remove the early crest and replace it with a late crest, along with renumbering the loco to 48151 to reflect it as currently preserved. Do you think the sellotape method is worth trying with this model and is there any risk of damaging the finish to the model itself?

Regards, John.

Reply to
John Lancaster

"John Lancaster" wrote

It will either remove (just) the emblem or nothing in my experience, so it's got to be worth a go.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

In message , John Lancaster writes

Don't Fox Transfers sell blanking patches to cover the crest?

Reply to
John Sullivan

Thanks for that advice, John. I'll give it a go!

John.

Reply to
John Lancaster

They do, but I'll try sellotape first as it's cheaper (I already have some!) and resort to Fox Transfers if necessary!

John.

Reply to
John Lancaster

"John Sullivan" wrote

I've not tried the Fox version, but I did try some others produced years ago and:

a) they were not an exact match even after varnishing &

b) they were still visible as patches in some lights from some angles.

John.

Reply to
John Turner

Which may be better than the current problem with Hornby logos, as they are 'punched' into the underlying finish, leaving an 'etched' ghost of the logo. It maybe that the only way to truly get rid of these logos is to remove them carefully by wire wool and repaint (spray or otherwise), as another poster suggested.

It is unfortunate that in changing their lining and lettering process, Hornby have effectively destroyed what had been a rather simple customisation procedure for getting a locomotive with the number and period of choice, rather than having to put up with whatever Hornby produces (unless one is prepared to do total repaints on what are, to most accounts, somewhat well turned out models).

Ian J.

Reply to
Ian J.

For the record, the crest remains intact, post-sellotape! :o(

John.

Reply to
John Lancaster

Don't you have products on the UK market "designed" to lift numbers and crests?

One I use is "Poly S Easy-Lift-Off".

Though one has to take care as, if left on too long, it will also take off the underlying coat of paint.

-- Cheers Roger T.

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of the Great Eastern Railway

Reply to
Roger T.

Interesting. I've never seen anything in this country as such, but would be interested to know if any was available here.

However, I think there may be a problem with the Hornby logos now, as once removed, they always leave a 'ghost etch' of the logo behind, as if the logo had been stamped onto the side of the loco, rather than placed on as a transfer. This means it is impossible to remove the logo without leaving a mark on the finish, meaning that a modeller would have to be prepared to erase this imprint and repaint the loco...

Ian J.

Reply to
Ian J.

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