Easy bake rod holding oven

(forgot to crosspost this to sejw; apologies to those who read both groups)

When it came time to open up my box of 7018AC electrodes, I didn't want to just leave the box open, nor did I have the time to make a proper rod holding oven. So, I concocted a quick and dirty holding oven from some items I already had on hand: a five gallon metal paint can, a light bulb, some aluminum flashing, a grounded line cord, and a porcelain lamp holder.

The line cord is connected through the bucket with a proper strain relief, but isn't visible in the pictures as it lives underneath a half inch of insulation covered by aluminum tape. Although it is rated to 105C, I still wanted to shield it a bit from IR and ambient temperature of the unit.

The aluminum flashing serves to buffer out the hot spot by the lamp, and also serves as a convective circulator, helping to even out the temperature in the unit (there is about a one-inch gap at the bottom).

With a 60 watt light bulb, the rods achieve a uniform 220F temperature, which, while less than the 250F recommended by Lincoln, is still better than letting them sit at the mercy of whatever the conditions inside my house are.

The outside is covered in standard house insulation, and small insulation "pillow" is placed over the lid to help insulate the unit. At 60 watts, the unit will cost me about $3.00 a month in electricity.

Eventually I may upgrade it with a thermistor/SCR controlled heating element from a toaster oven, but for now this works well enough.

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Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken
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Heroic bodging, Jon!

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Looks good to me, there is a lot of heat in a light bulb.

Reply to
Nadogail

Thanks Winston, glad you liked it.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Is there a standard temperature that welding rod should be stored at! Do different types have different recomended storahe temperatures? What is the effect of welding with rods stored inside at room temperature? Thanks, MikeK

Reply to
amdx

Cool!! Very well thought out!!

Gunner

I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote)

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Above 212 deg F.

The only rods that need to be stored dry are the Low Hydrogen rods. XX15, XX16, XX17, and XX18 rods.

Water vapor in the flux can cause hydrogen infusion into the weld pool. This can cause hydrogen embrittlement in thick structural welds.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

Now..can the rods be stored normally, then reheated properly before use?

Ive got 2 rod ovens..Keens IRRC..one for 10lbs, one for 50 lbs.

Gunner

I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote)

Reply to
Gunner Asch

When I rod-ovened some 7018's stored under my desk was interested to see steam coming out of door when opened it. So lot of moisture absorbed. People call Basics (Limestone-based coating) electrodes "LoHi"'s (low hydrogens). Not if you don't store them in that very specific way in a rod oven! Word asking welding engineers here in UK is that Basics (7016/7018) max-out at about the same hydrogen level as rutiles left to their own devices at room temperature.

Any able to say whether they agree or disagree?

Richard Smith

Reply to
Richard Smith

This is definitely not nearly adequate, see any electrode manufacturers website for actual recommended temperatures. LoHi electrode covering is a really good desiccant, it will absorb water vapor at well above 212 F.

Hydrogen embrittlement can also occur in single pass welds. I recall an incident where all of the superheater seal welds on the USS Saratoga were welded with improperly stored (no job site oven) xx18, and almost immediately upon leaving the yard (Philadelphia, approx 1980) superheater leaks forced shutdown of one boiler after another, all leaks originating in cracks in the seal welds. (tiny leaks grow very rapidly at 1200 PSI

1000 F). A metallurgist from a lab in Pearl Harbor analyzed weld sections and found indisputable evidence of hydrogen embrittlement, in spite of claims by the Phila welding supervisor that "I have seen plenty of good welds made with dripping wet electrodes". The superheaters were completely redone at another shipyard using dry electrodes and no further leaks occurred.

In high pressure steam pipe welding done properly (including superheater header seal welds), bulk rod storage is done in one oven so that the rod is hot when the can is opened, and a one-can oven is used at the job site, from which electrodes are removed one electrode at a time immediately prior to use.

Yes, see for example:

You are always best off using the time-temperature recommendations of the manufacturer of the rod you are using, and they probably all recommend not letting them get wet in the first place as the preferred practice.

I have also heard that, along with a comment that hydrogen embrittlement is less of a problem with 60xx deposits because they are more ductile and therefore more resistant to crack development and growth. But lacking a good reference for this you should regard it as opinion not fact :-).

Glen Walpert

Reply to
Glen Walpert

Welp...Ive got 2 ovens that will go to 2800F..but they arnt big enough for any quanity of rod...so it looks like my 7018 just became a mild steel welding rod.

Shrug

Gunner

I am the Sword of my Family and the Shield of my Nation. If sent, I will crush everything you have built, burn everything you love, and kill every one of you. (Hebrew quote)

Reply to
Gunner Asch

I think some or most electric cook ovens with a clean cycle will hit 650 F, just into the range required for recovery of wet 7018, although some mods might be required to get it to hold 650+ for an hour. (Do this while your wife is out :-).

Glen

Glen

Reply to
Glen Walpert

AFAIK As long as the inner wire isn't actually rusty, the rod can be baked clean in a kitchen oven. Lincoln had an article on their site about reconditioning old LoHi rods.

First test. Bend a rod in half. If the wire is rusty, it is not worth saving.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

I went to the Army-Navy store and got some large ammo boxes - that are air tight. Once I cooked mine, I put them in there and they seem dry as ever when I get a few out and close it back up.

They are not very expensive and last a long long time in a shop.

As for an oven, I use a surplus (think yard sale ) convection oven with fan... Set the degree and put in a tray of rods... Take rods out and store.

Mart> >

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Cleaning is a bit wild - one never knows what it is doing and the gases are dumped in to the house.

I first used a propane grill - With two burners and a thermometer.

Mart> >

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

Hi Glen

I understand there isn't a "6018" because 7018's are that tough that there is no need to drop the strength further seeking toughness and ductility in any circumstance. Or looking at it another completely different way - the tough fine grained structure gives 70ksi and you couldn't even get down to 60ksi while keeping that tough fine structure.

[And equally there is no "7013" because 60ksi => 6013 is as far as you can go given their lack of toughness and having to win back what you can with a soft weld deposit]

Interested to read your other comments. Noted that example of the superheater tube. That would be a very hardenable alloy steel and you'd definitely definitely definitely need low-hydrogen electrodes - as much so as hydrogen level is a "red-herring" (irrelevant distraction) for dead soft "mild steel" (?).

Appreciated that interesting post. Bst wishes

Rich Smth

Reply to
Richard Smith

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