Hobart Gasoline Welder

Wish I was closer, I'd double your money quick...

Reply to
Steve W.
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I believe you'll make a couple of bucks off that. My BIL came over after I got my SA200 running, and had a friend. I found out from talking to him that he is a welding instructor at the local college. I showed him the SA200. He made me promise that if I ever wanted to sell it, I called him first. His eyes just about popped out of his head.

I think you'll make decent money on that welder.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Did you look at the photos? There are TWO generators. One is for the electrical system.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

The Chrysler Industrial engine was a "Gold Standard" in it's day. Your engine is interchangeable with the Plymouth car engine of it's day.

We primed the lubrication system by removing the distributer and turning the oil pump with a long adapter chucked in a drill. The adapter was made fron a long bolt from the starter modified into a screwdriver.

Reply to
Nadogail

Yes it is a bit of a hassle but it's much better risking motor damage before the oil starts to flow.

Cheers,

Reply to
Steven Saunderson

Depends on if it has teeth or a keyway. If it has teeth, you can get it a tooth off, and compensate by rotating the distributor. Set the timing marks, and just try to get it as close as you can, and try to fire. Don't prime, as you'll get flaming backfires. If it has a keyway, you will have it right or 180 out. Set your timing marks by rotating the crankshaft, then take a pic or mark just exactly how it was when pulled. Don't know about everyone else, but I liked to pull the distributor, as if made everything more accessible to change, and cleaning the springs under the advance plate was a lot easier to get the gunk out. Disassemble the whole distributor, put it in the parts washer, and put it back together with new parts. For that engine, should not be much. DO NOT use Chief, Checker, or Auto Zone. Go to NAPA. Electric stuff from the others is questionable, or that has been my experience.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

"Gunner Asch" wrote: The problem with removing the distributor is getting the timing back in

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ An easier way to pre-lube the engine is to pull the spark plugs, maybe squirt a little oil in each cylinder, and the crank it with the plugs out for several seconds. Turning over at cranking speed with no load on the bearings will not damage the engine.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I don't need to look, I know what the machines look like. You replied to my post about generator parts, welding generator parts availability with a comment about the engine charging system. Pretty simple really, I'm talking about the generator. On a welding machine. A really critical part.

JTMcC.

Reply to
JTMcC

"Steve B" wrote

Set your timing marks by rotating the crankshaft, then

OR rotate crankshaft so the end of the rotor is at 12 o'clock. Remember not to crank the motor while you have the distributor out, and replace to 12 o'clock.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I have a full truck bed stacked cab high of ebay shit like that in my garage right now. It's raining, and I have to put up shelves before I unload it. It'll get done. One of these days. Off to get some new glasses today, so today is out.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

"Gunner Asch" wrote

Give it a pause between spritzing and turning. Go smoke an adult cigarette of choice, maybe a nap. Let the PB work.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

You should post pictures of that shit. I would love to see them.

If not for my spouse and the village enforcement department, my yard might end up looking like that, sans the cactus garden. But I try to keep things on the up and up as much as I can to keep out of trouble.

Burned four pallets the other day as part of spring cleaning.

Front yards are made for storage... and that's what mine will do...

i
Reply to
Ignoramus8009

as opposed to a "little kids" cigarette, right? ; )

JTMcC

Reply to
JTMcC

In your part of the world there's a chance that the engine is one in common use on irrigation pumps or other agricultural applications. So in the event you part it out that's another possible group that might be interested.

JTMcC.

Reply to
JTMcC

Today, the kids smoke whatever the adults smoke. And it all ain't good for ya.

Nothing worse than an ex hooker or ex smoker who preaches, ain't there?

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Vegas has already surpassed its yearly average of rain. Should be a green desert this spring. Up here in Utah, too. Hope the wildflowers are as good as last year, which was a historic year for some of the rare ones.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Right. Sure. OK.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

I took a look at the pictures and I brought back memories. These machines were made probably a bit before the WW ll and during the war and were the back bone of the ship building industry. This unit is no doubt a 300 amp DC welder. These were made by Hobart, Lincoln, GE, Glenn Roberts, and such. The flat head 6 cylinder Chrysler industrial was very common as were 6 cylinder Chevrolet's. As the war progressed 4 cylinder Jeeps were also used. These same welders were also built as motor/ generator welders and usually ran on

3 phase 220 or 440 volts. They were great welders. The DC is taken off of the armature via brushes and that was the only thing that would wear out or maybe a bearing now and then. Those were dam good welders from an era when things were made hell for stout. They welded together may Liberty ships and others. Many were used by the Seabees during the big war. They don't make them like they used to. Erwin P.S. I hope that someone else did not post the same info. I did not run through the long thread. Just the beginning and the end.
Reply to
Erwin F.Sawall Jr.

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