Read the can Bob, WD-40 claim to fame is that it coats metal parts and
replaces any water. It not difficult to figure that locks with moving parts
and tight tolerences will eventually become immovable when enough of the
residual WD-40 coats parts beyond their fits. It doesn't take a CML to read
the can and realise that any non-coating pure lubricant is better for a
lock. Maybe you'll get it worked out in the next 23 years and read about the
products you use and recommend. NO WD-40 is not a lubricant....... it is a
Water Dislacement...... Even graphite in small doses would be better than
WD-40. Use WD-40 on your boat motors........ And no apparently you don't
know what works because you're the type that doesn't learn from simple
concepts like recommended uses as prescribed by the manufacturers. I can
provide you with several products that you can use instead of WD-40 that
will do the job better and more effectively................... but let me
guess??? You're not interested........... Old dogs new tricks syndrome.
The problem with this logic is that if you were to spray an assembly with
WD-40 the solvent in the new spray would disolve any residue from the
It doesn't take a CML to read
What lubricant is non-coating?
Maybe you'll get it worked out in the next 23 years and read about the
The dictionary provides the definition
Main Entry: lu·bri·cant
1 : a substance (as grease) capable of reducing friction, heat,
and wear when introduced as a film between solid surfaces
2 : something that lessens or prevents friction or difficulty
So tell me, if WD-40 is sprayed on to a latch that is sticking and it stops
sticking, is it your contention that the only explanation is that the water
that was displaced? Or could it be that perhaps WD-40 is a lubricant?
If you look at a can of WD-40 it says it lubricates. Are they
misrepresenting the properties of their product? If so, how is it that with
their famous blue can in almost every household in America and folks
spraying it on all sorts of squeaks that if in fact it did not lubricate,
why do the squeaks stop?
Even graphite in small doses would be better than
If you are trying to make the point that WD-40 might not be the most
effective lubricant, I will grant you that. If however you contend that it
is not a lubricant, or that it "... has ruined more locks than
any other form of known abuse" I would suggest that you have one or more
threaded fasteners that are inadequately tightened.
Why then does WD-40 use the catch phrase "For whatever you've got that
sticks or squeaks"?
Yes I know that WD stands for water displacement. I've read the can. I've
also read the box of Q-Tips that tells me not to stick one in my ear.
I got one for you...
My father's neighbor swore by WD-40 for his arthritis (sp?). So do tens of
thousands of other people. It doesn't say "for arthritis relief" on the
can but for some reason on some people it works. Those people don't know
why and don't care. It works. That's good enough for them.
I know I've had good luck with WD-40 over the years in locks. You can say
anything you want about it or me, but it doesn't change the fact that it
BTW - How long have you been a locksmith? My guess is you're not. I'm
guessing you are an engineer or some other by-the-book occupation who knows
better and more than everyone else, on every subject. Am I close?.
"Bob DeWeese, CML" wrote in message:
My guess is that he is an engineer of some kind... All about facts on paper
and theoretical stuff, but lacking real world life experience in many
things... I mean did you see what he was ranting on about in the "Fat
Wallet Glen" thread...
Whatever line of work he is in he doesn't understand the concept of
'on-call' labor... I am just an employee of a property management company,
but if Iget called in to work outside of my normal working hours I get paid
double my normal hourly pay rate... Oh and if I am only there for 20
mintues, I get paid for three hours worth of work for the trouble of coming
in... Such concepts of how the world works are very foreign to a 9-5 day
shift type employee in a non-service industry...
WD-40 is a big part of my life as a Maintenance Man... It gets used
everywhere and on just about everything... I will note however that it is
not recommended in certain types of locks with sidebar locking mechanisms...
It won't destroy them if used on the lock (it is just not what the lock
manufacturer recommends), but WD-40 evaporates rather quickly compared to
other types of lubricant... I never use graphite on anything... It is a
royal pain in the butt if you spill it...
I did ask "nice2cu" to use his actual name, and explain his qualifications
as he did claim once in that other thread to be a locksmith... Maybe he
will sometime here in this thread... Who knows...
Evan the Maintenance Man
A good trick with these of any other screw which will take a relatively limited
amount of torque before stripping is to place a punch or other object about the
same size as the screw head in contact with it and give it a sharp blow or two
with a hammer. Don't hit the screw directly with the hammer you may damage the
part the tool needs to contact. You can also gently tap the tool, whatever it
may be, in place to be sure it's seated well. A little extra time here can save
a big headache if you strip it out.
I remember once Theresa (my wife) put Armor-All on the rubber step inside
the sliding door on my van - to "make it look nice".... and didn't warn me.
Armor-All is definitely not a lubricant, but I would have argued that point
with anyone that day as I was picking myself up out of the back of the van.
The look on my face (from what I've been told) was priceless.
Thanks. I might try this, but I am worried that if I did that I might damage
the lock cylinder so that I would not be able to start the car again (by
ruining a pin??). If this is a possibility, I would like to have a new
cylinder available to replace it. Or, if it actually were damaged, I
probably could just pull the lock cylinder, and then use a screwdriver to
turn the ignition switch, which I actually replaced 4 years ago. I hope that
would work to at least get the car started.
I'll have to see how the cables run, to see if I can adjust that mechanism.
For the record, I made sure the automatic transmission was in "Park", which
was. And I also tried turning the steering wheel to both extremes, to see if
this would help, but it didn't. I tried wiggling the ignition cylinder; and
also tried turning the steering wheel while turning the key from "Lock" to
"On", all with no luck.
I am able to turn the key from "Lock" to "On" and to "Start" smoothly and
vice-versa. However, I cannot turn it to "Accessory", which is actually on
the other side of "Lock", not on the side where "On" and "Start" are.
Will do so. It's difficult to see, since the plastic/rubber window molding
gets in the way. But maybe with the help of a light.
yes, thank you. it actually was an older key, factory original. I did have a
lot of weight on the key ring though, about 20 other keys. Mmaybe this might
have contributed to the problem.
excellent advice Bob! I had actually let me AAA coverage lapse. So I will
renew, and next time just call them. The locksmiths in my area charge $75
for an auto lockout, but I should have just paid that. I realize you guys
have to make a living too :) , and when I called for the quote, it was at
around 10 PM. I am pretty mechanically inclined (I have done things like my
own tie-rod ends and rear shocks and brakes), so I think it's just a matter
of being able to get in there somehow and knowing what to look for!
As you can see, it's raining. It's supposed to rain for the next three days.
Ugh. Hopefully, it will clear for a few hours in the next few days, so I can
fix it. Otherwise, I will have to wait until Tuesday.
Excellent! I actually posted a pic of this on the url I posted in a post
It appears there are three Torx bolts. Fortunately, I have Torx sockets to
use, and even an impact wrench if need be.
With these screws removed you should be able to twist the
ok, this might be easier than drilling through rivets of the seat belt
retainer brace! :) I'll give this a try as soon as the rain here stops.
the thing is the outside and inside door handles work fine. It's only the
outside lock cylinder that will not unlock or lock the lock. But the inside
door lock works fine. The loose rod I found is attached to the back of the
lock cylinder (I can see it through a hole on the inside of the door). I
just need to find where the loose rod connects and how, which I will do as
soon as I can get access! :)
I agree. I have lots of loose screws and bolts lying around now, although it
should be fairly obvious to me where they go. I just hope I can fit
everyhting back the way it should be fitted. And the bolts for one of the
seat belt brace that I took off had either Loc-tite or RTV gasket sealer or
thread sealer or something like that on them though. I'm not sure if
re-applying whatever that is is necessary though.
yep, it is definitely in the "off/lock" position. I can't turn it
counter-clockwise to "accessory", which is where that is on this car. And I
know it's "off", since I can't turn the radio on. If I want to play the
radio now without the engine running, I have to turn the key to "on".
I'm curious. How would doing this help? Would it knock out any dirt, so you
could get a better grip with the Torx bit socket?
You can also gently tap the tool, whatever it
thank you. this is good advice, and i will be careful. I'm hoping that if I
have trouble, a quick burst using my impact wrench would work. I would have
to use it with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, since my Torx bit sockets are 3/8" I
Over the years I have tried just about everything on the market. Now I
only use two spray lubes, INOX (Australian made) & WD 40. Remember brass on
brass within a 'quality' lock cylinder is basically self lubricating, but
when a pollutant such as dust or road grime enter the equation then you need
to wash it out, hence WD 40. I've never had a problem with WD 40 leaving
behind a gummy film etc. INOX is better for latches and mechanical linkages,
springs etc as it is a true lube and lasts for years without gumming up or
washing off. I think in fact that if you believe that WD 40 causes untold
lock problems, that YOU in fact are from the OLD SCHOOL that believes
everything they hear without first hand tryal & error experience. And just
as a side note, WD 40 is terrific on sore joints and arthritis, FACT.
Okay, my original idea won't work. I've since read here (if I'm not
mistaken) that the linkage is disconnected at the latch unit, not the
cylinder (where the key goes). was going to suggest an easy way to pull
that cyl but now it's a mute point.
The only thing left to do at this point is to drill out the rivets on the
seatbelt rollers. (Everyone I ever did had bolts. Never saw one with
rivets until now) ***Make sure you replace them with factory rivets. Your life could depend
on those rivets one day.*** Or... suppose you could bolt them back in.
I had actually let me AAA coverage lapse. So I will
Let me make another suggestion. AAA contracts with the cheapest locksmiths
they can't find. While you may get a decent locksmith through AAA, chances
are better that you will get an un trained/undertrained guy with a slim jim.
Now granted if a AAA "locksmith"
(and I use the term loosely) screws up your car, they will have it repaired
(usually by the same "locksmith" that screwed it up)
Another problem with AAA is response time. If one guy they call says 30
minutes but his price is higher and the cheapest guy they can find says
three hours, you gonna be waiting for three hours. They have no respect for
your time, if they can get a better price by letting you wait.
Here's an alterative...
Get "Emergency Road Service" coverage on your *regular* car insurance. It's
less than $10 a year (compared to AAA's $40+). You call who _you_ want
(best ETA) and pay them out of pocket. Then get re-imbursed by your
insurance company in a week or two. It doesn't effect your rates and there
is no deductible.
Just something to think about.
It will do that but mainly it will slightly loosen threads which are locked
tightly together. Just enough so you can turn without stripping it out. It's
more often needed with large philips screws, torx allows for quite a bit more
torque but they will still strip if you are not careful or especially if you
don't have the bit seated all the way in when you torque it. If there is dirt
in the working area of the fastener i.e. the "*" of a torx then clean it out
with a sharp pointed tool and or tap the bit snugly into it before you apply
The impact will often work great but make doubly sure that the bit is seated in
good and snug because you won't have any time to react if it starts to slip to
avoid stripping it. With the torx bit you can always combine the two tecniques
into one step, put an extension on the torx bit seat it in the fastner and tap
the end of it with a hammer.
If you do wind up having to drill some rivets to get access through the inner
door it's not a big deal just replace them with short 1/4 or 5/16 bolts and a
hexnut and lock washer. A die grinder with a cutoff wheel or thin stone will
also make quick work of the rivets if you have trouble drilling them.