I'm Stuck: Auto Lock Problem (With URL for Pics!)

Be sure to let us know how this works out.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf
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This works good in the case of corrosion, but those latch bolts on cars must use some locktite or something.

Speaking of this I ran across a Honda ignition that had a small Allen screw as a secondary retainer that had some kind of thread locker on it. A modest dose of heat and it came right out.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Your right they do.

A good suggestion. Heat from a heatgun or small torch will break it right loose.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

I have not seen an interlock problem that would let the plug turn through all the positions except accessory.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

Thanks Bob! I will have to do this. Someone had suggested to take out the latch instead of having to remove the seat belt roller, and I had hoped this might work, but after closer inspection, the problem with that is that the latch itself would not fit through the latch opening in the door, so it would drop down into the door bottom after I undid the bolts. And I then wouldn't have access to replace it without having to take out the riveted seat belt roller brace.

Reply to
Julie P.

Exactly. They have a guy drive around in a AAA pick-up truck, and he uses a slim-jim.

Where I used to live, they used to be fast (no more than a 45 minute wait, usually about 20-30 minutes), but now where I live, they take 2-3 hours. One time it was raining, and I ran out of gas. I called, and the guy did not show up until 3 hours later. Apparently, tow truck people don't like to work when it rains, so the guy had to drive one hour to get to me! His boss said he was nuts to come all that way to deliver gas.

Interesting. I never knew about that option. Will they reimburse you the full amount? Around here, locksmiths want $75 per lockout call. The thing I like about AAA though is I get 100 miles of towing per trip free of charge! (I was a AAA Plus member.)

Reply to
Julie P.

thanks for this advice and your answer to my question above. It looks like I will end up having to drill out the rivets. I don't think I will be able to use bolts and nuts/lock washers though, since there is one spot that I probably will not be able to access if I have to get to the other side to screw on a nut and lock washer (it's deep inside the door well). So I am thinking of just using rivets instead. I do have a riveting gun. Do you know what size rivets I should use?

Reply to
Julie P.

I actually have what I think is a good quality riveter. It's made by Arrow Fastener Company. I bought it for under $10, but it was a closeout/surplus/salvage deal. My auto body instructor seemed to think it was an expensive one, and told me I got one heck of a deal. Here is a picture of it on the manufacturer's website:

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Reply to
Julie P.

I believe they are 1/4"mandrel. The problem being they are too big for most of the commonly available pop rivet guns. Although maybe you have one of the larger ones. Don't be afraid to hole saw a hole somewhere in the inner door skin if that's the only way to get access to bolt it. You frequently have to do that kind of thing anyway when working on doors. allot of designs for example require drilling or sawing not one but three holes just to get to the power window motor bolts.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

It was orange.

You don't

I never knew about nail polish or paint. But I actually do have tons of Loc-tite. I think it is blue, although I may have some other types too.

Reply to
Julie P.

ok, I might have to check that then too. Hopefully, one of my Chilton's or Haynes manuals will have this info. Otherwise, I might have to get something like Mitchell or the factory manual (which is ridiculously expensive, but which would be good to have).

No, it is a regular steeering wheel.

PLUS, are you running a HIGH amp, audio amp through the

As far as I know, no. I have only the factory radio installed.

Reply to
Julie P.

Ok, so that settles it then. I will make sure I have the right parts before doing the job. Stupid question: do you or anyone else happen to know the part(s) I need to find? Just the ignition cylinder? Will they also have a key to match that? I'll also take a look at my Chevy manuals to see if they have any insight.

FTR, I did squirt graphite into the ignition lock about 5 years ago. as well as liquid lock lubricant (the kind you use when your locks freeze) a few years before and after the graphite. People kept on telling me to use graphite, and others said liquid, and I never knew what to use.

Reply to
Julie P.

Unfortunately that one isn't big enough for most of the rivets in auto doors. If i'm not mistaken they are 1/4" mandrel steel rivets. Air rievt guns will do them. The hand version has handles about 2' long and the nose is usually inline with and parralel to the handles.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

true. but when the lockout happened, my spare set of keys in my purse was also in the car. What might be smart is to hide a key somewhere under the car. Perhaps with a magnetic key box on the gas tank or on the front cross-members.

Reply to
Julie P.

The key will come with the lock cylinder.

Nothing is probably best unless there's a problem that it might help (like now) IMHO a liquid product is almost always best because it has the added benefit of flushing dirt and debris from the lock.

Reply to
Putyourspamhere

You're right. Mine only goes up to 3/16".

Although maybe you have one of the

ok. this is smart. for some reason, I never think of these things. I guess it's just lack of experience. I actually do have a number of metal hole saws. I also have a 4 amp, 0.4 HP 3/8" electric Skil drill, so I am hoping this would have enough power to do the drilling. I think the inner door skin is only about 16 or 18 gauge metal, although I could be wrong.

Reply to
Julie P.

Good! At least my Chevy still uses two keys (one for the doors/trunk, and another for the ignition), so I won't have to carry around an second key then, which would have been the case if I had any other make of car.

Yeah, for some reason, I had it in my mind that one should "maintain" their locks every 6 months or so. Now, as you suggest, I don't do anything. But the damage with graphite from years ago may have already been done.

Reply to
Julie P.

That looks like an "industrial quality" rivet tool (Arrow is a quality brand) - and the relevant question is "how large a rivet - in terms of the mandrel diameter" will it handle (or this may be rivet diameter.) This one has 4 nose pieces - the largest being 3/16". I don't know if that is quite large enough.

The next question is the rivet itself. The most common one for home and general use are aluminum - but they aren't strong enough for "structural" use - and so steel rivets would be mandatory for your use.

The problem is finding large diameter steel rivets, and then in setting them. It can take a *lot* of hand strength to "pop" even the smaller steel rivets. So this small of a riveter might not be adequate for a 3/16" steel rivet - even if that rivet would do the job. (I don't know if this would be satisfactory, or if a 1/4" is needed.) Note that the only steel rivets shown on the URL above or at

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are 1/8". (There are stainless steel ones in 5/32" but the riveter isn't rated for stainless steel rivets.)

Reply to
Henry E Schaffer

State Farm has 'roadsidde' service, and I ahve not had a bill rejected due to price YET... BUT, they will NOT COVER making keys... none will AFAIK

I always ask the customer what they CAR insurance company is, and tell them to then (if its one I know has) turn the bill in to their agent.. that makes them feel better..

BTW, the local AAA provider (had a garage as well) is now out of business it seems..dont know why yet

--Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

the LARGE rivet gun needed has handles almost 2 feet long.. and when the rivet pops, it REALLY jumps- scaring the paint is not uncommon. for when it bounces. --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

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